Sunday, August 26, 2018

20 AUG 18 Passau

 

This post is based primarily on Don's notes, occasionally supplemented with MT's notes from our cruise in 2018. When information from other sources is added—for further explanation to readers or to satisfy our own curiosity—that is set off in a text box (as this one).
Most of the photos that accompany this post are from Don’s camera (with a caption indicating the time it was taken); those from MT’s iPhone are indicated by “MT” placed at the beginning of the photo caption. Photos from any other source (such as the public domain Wikimedia Commons), occasionally used for clarification, indicate that source in the caption.

 The forecast in the Viking Daily newsletter was for 62-85° F and Sunny.


We woke at 8:00 am and went to breakfast at 8:30, while the Viking Bragi was still docked at Passau.


MT Monday, ‎August ‎20, ‎2018, ‏‎8:50 AM - Passau: Don and MT finishing breakfast of the Aquavit Terrace at the aft end of the Bragi.



Passau: Map, from Tourism Office, provided by Viking, with callouts: 1 = Fortress "Veste Oberhaus", Museum, youth hostel, vantage point; 2 = Conjunction Point of Danube, Inn and Ilz; 3 = Museum of Modern Art; 4 = Convent "Niedernburg"; 5 = Jesuite Church "St. Michael"; 6 = Town Hall, Town Hall Square; 7 - Glass-Museum Passau in "Hotel Wilder Mann"; 8 = "Art Alley" Höllgasse; 9 = Diocese Museum and Cathedral Treasury in the New Bishop's Residence; 10 = St. Stephen's Cathedral, world's largest cathedral organ; 11 = Church "St. Paul"; 12 = University Church "St. Nikola"; 13 = Church "St. Severin"; 14 Roman Museum "Kastell Boiotro"; 15 = Pilgrimage Church "Mariahilf" vantage point. [Our ship docked A11 (see green circle) at one of the two "Mooring cruises" spots indicated on the Danube just to right of the Schanzbrücke bridge along the Fritz-Schäffer-Promenade street; that was where our walking tour would begin; the tour would end at the Cathedral (see red rectangle).]
 
Passau, known as the “Dreiflüssestadt” (“City of Three Rivers”), lies at the confluence of three rivers: the Danube (here only 240 m wide), the Inn (290 m wide) from the south, and the little Ilz river from the north. It is the last major German city on the Danube at the border with Austria.


Passau: aerial view of confluence of three rivers: Inn, Danube, and Ilz, from left to right (By Carsten Steger - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=105253125).


Passau: Engraving from around 1581 (By Braun & Hogenberg, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=493696). This engraving is from Civitates orbis terrarium (Cities of the World), a famous collection of town map engravings primarily by Franz Hogenberg (1535-1590), edited and annotated by theologian and publisher Georg Braun (1541-1622), and published in six volumes between 1572 and 1617.

In the 2nd century BC, much of the Celtic tribe Boii was pushed out of Italy and north across the Alps by the Romans. They established a settlement here that became their new capital, called Bojodurum by the Romans. Around 200 AD, this became the site of a Roman fort, called Castra Batava because it was occupied by a cohort of Batavian troops. (The Batavians, or Batavi, were an ancient Germanic tribe.) In the 7th century, a Bavarian ducal castle was built on the ruins of the Roman fort. In the second half of the 7th century, St. Severus established a monastery in Passau. In 739, an English Celtic monk named Boniface, recently consecrated as an archbishop, founded the diocese of Passau, covering territory in southern Bavaria and most of what is now Upper and Lower Austria. For many years, it was the largest of the Holy Roman Empire, when it extended to the boundary of Hungary. From the 10th century, the bishops of Passau also exercised secular authority as Prince-Bishops, ruling the area as a small principality. In 1784, the bishopric lost its territory in Austria, and in 1803 it was secularized and divided between the Electorate of Bavaria and the Electorate of Salzburg. The portion belonging to Salzburg became part of Bavaria in 1805. The bishopric was re-established in 1821.

Passau was an important medieval center for the salt trade. The “white gold,” as it was called, was transported from the alpine salt mines to Passau, where it was processed by entrepreneurs called Salzfertiger. These city merchants established a powerful monopoly until 1707, when all salt imports to Passau were forbidden and the once flourishing city lost it valuable trade.
During the Renaissance, Passau became famous for making high-quality knife and sword blades. Local smiths stamped their blades with the Passau wolf, and superstitious warriors believed that the wolf granted them invulnerability. Thus, Passau swords acquired a great reputation and high marketing value. The practice of placing magical, protective charms on blades became known as “Passau art.”
 When fires ravaged the city in the 1662 and 1680, it was rebuilt with Italian architects summoned by the prince-bishops of Passau, to reflect the Baroque character that survives today, with some Rococo and Neo-Classical façades. However, Passau retains a medieval feel in its narrow alleys and archways, which create a distinctive ambience and make the city extraordinarily beautiful. The Altstadt (Old Town), with it Baroque churches and patrician houses, is crowded onto the narrow tongue of land separating the Inn and the Danube. St. Stephen’s Cathedral is one of the town’s foremost landmarks and boasts the largest pipe organ outside the United States. Northward on the far bank of the Danube, the Veste Oberhaus rises atop a wooded bluff, with a panoramic view of the city and the conjunction of the three rivers.
Today, Passau is home to 50,000 people and has grown to become the economic, cultural, and communications center of southeastern Bavaria. 

 Around 10:00, we left the Viking Bragi for the "Passau Walking Tour & Organ Concert" shore excursion (included).

 
The Viking Daily newsletter described the 2-hour "Passau Walking Tour & Organ Concert" shore excursion as follows:
A Stroll Through an Elegant City Capped Off by Beautiful Music
“Explore the Italianate-style streets of Passau, where three major European rivers have converged to shape a distinctive city. Meet your local guide and begin your walking tour through delightful old-world streets, taking in a pastel rainbow of building façades as you stroll. You will see the impressive Bishops’ Residenz from where powerful prince-bishops ruled secular and religious life for hundreds of years.  Continue past the 14th-century Rathaus, or Town Hall, built on the site of a former fish market on the Danube. Conclude your walk at the magnificent 17th-century St. Stephen’s Cathedral. This baroque wonder houses Europe’s largest pipe organ, with more than 17,000 pipes, and inspired Liszt to write his “Hungarian Coronation Mass.” You may linger here amid its beauty for an organ concert or take some free time to continue exploring the city. Please note: Organ concerts are not held on Sundays or from November to April.”


‎MT ‏‎10:04 AM - Passau: houses on hill near dock where Viking tour group 13B was gathering to start our walking tour (telephoto 78 mm).



‏‎10:04 AM - Passau: old building, probably on Fritz-Schäffer-Promenade street [our guide said it was a former hospital, now a seniors residence], near docks, with tower of St. Paul's Cathedral in background.



‏‎10:05 AM - Passau: far end of that building and another old building near docks (part of sign for "Terrasse ...Simon...") which could have been part of city wall (?), with St. Paul church behind it and tower of St. Stephen's Cathedral in background (horizontal).



‏‎10:05 AM - Passau: far end of that building and another old building near docks (part of sign for "Terrasse ...Simon...") which could have been part of old city wall (?), with  St. Paul church behind it and tower of St. Stephen's Cathedral in background (vertical).



‏‎10:07 AM (Cropped) - Passau: sign with view of confluence of rivers, labeling "Inn" at left, "Donau/Danube," and "Ilz" at lower right; also labeled are "Dom St. Stephan/St. Stephen's Cathedral" just to right of bend in Inn, "Rathaus/Town Hall" just past nearest bridge on Danube, "Ihr Standort/ Your Position" at red dot by docks at first bend in Danube, and "Veste Oberhaus/ Fortress 'Veste Oberhaus' " on bluff to right of Danube.



‏‎10:07 AM - Passau: old wall near docks, could have been part of old city wall (mild telephoto 56 mm).



‏‎10:09 AM - Passau: view from near docks toward Veste Oberhaus on hill.



‏‎10:10 AM - Passau: building with small sign on 2nd floor for "Wasserstand [high-water mark from flooding] 1 June 2013" and signs on 1st floor for "Restaurant Cafe Bayerische Venedig," which is located at Kastnergasse 2, just off Fritz-Schäffer-Promenade.



‏‎10:11 AM - Passau: on the right is what looked like old battlements, near the docks.



‏‎10:12 AM - Passau: view up narrow Höllgasse street toward Rathaus; note the multicolored cobblestones down the center of the street; in foreground are MT and another man from our group with our tour group guide.

Höllgasse (Hell Alley) is a quaint, narrow, cobblestone street that runs 300 m from Fritz-Schäffer-Promenade to the Rathausplatz. It probably got its name from the Old High German hell, which meant “narrow space.” Other sources say the name comes from its proximity to the Danube River. Due to the confluence of three rivers here, Passau regularly experiences significant flooding, and one can see high water marks on buildings. The worst flood occurred in 1501, but the second-worst hit in 2013, when much of the city was flooded with waters that rose above the first floor of each building. Local university students and others pitched in to help clean up the mud and debris to that today one would never know the are had been prone to such floods.
All the houses on Höllgasse are from the Middle Ages, and some were badly damaged by the two great city fires in 1662 and 1680.

This street is also called “Artist’s Alley” (Künstlergasse), since over the years it has been transformed into an artists’ colony. Because of the frequent flooding, ground floors of buildings were no longer used for residences and became used for commercial purposes. The street is full of small art galleries, shops, and stores. Artists have painted a line of varying colors in the center of the street for customers to follow. Artists and shopkeepers often hang examples of their wares on ropes strung overhead across the street.


MT ‎‏‎10:09 AM - Passau: multicolored cobblestones down the center of Höllgasse street.


‏‎10:12 AM - Passau: view up narrow Höllgasse street toward Rathaus; in foreground are MT and another lady with our tour group guide.



‏‎10:13 AM - Passau: view up even narrower pedestrianized street (off Höllgasse) with arches over steps.



‏‎10:13 AM - Passau:  corner of Höllgasse and Berggasse (Hill Street); this was how we knew we were following Höllgasse.



‏‎10:15 AM - Passau:  building on Höllgasse with sign for "Andreas Dafinger bürgl. Fleischhacker  [Public Butcher] 1843" and sign one story above that for "1663"; the latter may have been a high water mark for a flood in that year.

 

MT ‎‏‎10:12 AM - Passau:  corner of building on Höllgasse with three small plaques for high-water marks: two between windows on 2nd floor for 12.89 m in 2013 and below it for 1954; and another below those windows (illegible).



‏‎10:16 AM - Passau: T-shirts for sale in Höllgasse; the one in the center shows evolution leading up to a Bavarian in Lederhosen.



MT ‏‎10:12 AM - Passau: T-shirt for sale in Höllgasse that shows evolution leading up to a Bavarian in Lederhosen.



‏‎10:17 AM - Passau: Höllgasse - MT by center of street with colorful cobblestones and a branch to the right probably leading to a shop entrance.



‏‎10:18 AM - Passau: another narrow side street off Höllgasse with arches.



‏‎10:18 AM - Passau: street sign for "Kleine Messergasse" (Little 
Knife Alley) side street, between Höllgasse and Große Messergasse (Great Knife Alley).

 

‏‎10:19 AM - Passau: our tour group in another narrow side street off Höllgasse with arches; small blue sign for "Steiningergasse 3" on the next cross street after Kleine Messergasse.



‏‎10:19 AM - Passau: view up that narrow side street off Höllgasse with arches; Rathaus at far end and tour group with guide (with red Viking paddle) in foreground.



MT ‎‏‎10:16 AM - Passau: view up that narrow side street with statue at far end (mild telephoto 51 mm).



MT ‎‏‎10:16 AM - Passau: view up that narrow side street off Höllgasse with arches; Rathaus tower at far end (mild telephoto 51 mm).



MT ‎‏‎10:17 AM - Passau: sign that translates: "Horse Butcher Shop Breu, founded 1890" (telephoto 78 mm).

Pferdemetzgerei Breu (Horse Butcher Shop Breu) is located at Höllgasse 3.


‏‎10:21 AM - Passau: approaching Altes Rathaus tower at far end of narrow street, with Hotel Wilder Mann on right.



‏‎10:22 AM - Passau: view of Veste Oberhaus, across Danube, from near Altes Rathaus.



MT ‎‏‎10:18 AM - Passau: view of Veste Oberhaus with year "1499" on its side, from near Altes Rathaus (telephoto 67 mm).



‏‎10:22 AM - Passau: view of Veste Oberhaus with year "1499" on its side, from near Altes Rathaus (telephoto 93 mm).



‏‎10:28 AM - Passau: Hotel Wilder Mann with statues on corner, old-style sign of a wild man around corner to left, and sign for "Glasmuseum Passau" around corner to right, below two plaques for "Wasserhöhe" [water height] (one dated 10 July 1954 and the other with date illegible); to the left of the lower high-water plaque is a sign for "'Der Wilde Mann von Rathaus[platz]' Glasmuseum Passau."

The Hotel Wilder Mann (Wild Man Hotel) is located at Schrottgasse 2, on the Rathausplatz (Town Hall Square) about 800 m from St. Stephen’s Cathedral and 850 m from St. Paul’s Church.


Passau: Hotel Wilder Mann - old-style sign of wild man and date “1676” (By Frank Kovalchek at https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:2009_sign_Hotel_Wilder_Mann_Passau_Bavaria.jpg).

The buildings of the Hotel Wilder Mann date back to the Gothic and Baroque periods. Documentation exists of one of the buildings as early as 1303. The corner building was used for centuries as a courthouse. That is why the former Passau pillory is located there. That corner is now adorned with statues of St. Stephan and St. Nicholas. The rich toll collector and patrician who owned the “Wilder Mann” from 1480 to 1537 was a friend of great painters in the late-Gothic Danube style. In 1844, Anton Niederleuthner (1809-1871), acquired the shabby wine tavern “Gasthaus Wilder Mann” at Schrottgasse 4 and expanded the business into a flourishing hotel, wine tavern, and wine wholesale company. turned it into a renowned hotel that welcomed famous and high-ranking guests in the 19th century. For example, Empress Elisabeth of Austria stayed at the Wilder Mann in 1862 and again in 1878. Other guest included the writer Adalbert Stifter, Chief of Staff Count Moltke, and Count Zeppelin.

 In 1880, the hotel was closed. In 1979, Georg Höltl bought the former courtroom next to the Rathausplatz, then a patrician house in the Höllgasse and two additional patrician houses, including the former “Hotel Wilder Mann.” Following substantial renovation work between 1983 and 1985, with extensive preservation of the historical structure, the four buildings were joined together, creating the “Wilder Mann am Rathausplatz” building complex, in which the hotel occupies 2,200 m2, and the Glass Museum Passau (also operated by Höltl) occupies 4,400 m2. In 1985, the hotel and the museum were opened by Neil Armstrong, the first man on the moon. Since then, the historic hotel has played host to well-known names from the worlds of politics, business, and culture, including Miklail Gorbachev, King Simeon II of Bulgaria, Patriarch Bartholomew I of Constantinople, and three cardinals.


MT ‎‏‎10:24 AM - Passau: Hotel Wilder Mann with statues of St. Stephan and St. Nicholas on corner and old-style sign of a wild man around corner to left (mild telephoto 58 mm).



‏‎10:23 AM - Passau: Hotel Wilder Mann - same image of as on old-style sign (reversed), of a wild man with date "1676" (mild telephoto 56 mm).


‏‎10:29 AM - Passau: Rathausplatz, with Altes Rathaus at far left, Hotel Wilder Mann on corner in center, and façade of New Town Hall at right.



‏‎10:29 AM - Passau: Altes Rathaus tower and Hotel Wilder Mann on corner in right background.

The Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall), located on Rathausplatz, is now part of a three-building complex consisting of the Old Town Hall, the Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall), and the Rathaus Altes Hauptzollamt (Town Hall Old Main Customs Office).
The beginnings of the Altes Rathaus go back to 1298, when the citizens won the right to have a town hall in an uprising against the Prince-Bishop of Passau. The hall, built in the Venetian style, dates back to 1405. The original façade frescoes from 1446 were replaced in 1922 with modern murals depicting Emperor Ludwig the Bavarian and four flag-bearers of the electorates of Saxony, Trier, and Cologne and the Duchy of Bavaria.

The 38-meter-high Rathausturm (Town Hall Tower) was added in 1889-92 as a replacement for the previous tower that was demolished in 1811. Originally, the new tower had a roof turret, which was demolished in 1938 because it was dilapidated. After two devastating floods at the end of the 19th century, a start was made of attaching corresponding high-water marks to the base of the tower, which were supplemented by other historical high-water marks from before 1890. In 1991, 23 bells were installed in the tower, which since 2007 can be played as a carillon.


‏‎10:31 AM - Passau: Altes Rathaus - north side façade with modern murals depicting Emperor Ludwig the Bavarian and four flag-bearers of the electorates of Saxony, Trier, and Cologne and the Duchy of Bavaria; Rathaus tower and Hotel Wilder Mann at right.


MT ‏‎10:24 AM - Passau: Altes Rathaus - high-water marks on base of tower, from top down: 1501, 2013, 1595, 1954, 1787, 1862, 1899, 1895, 2002, and 1920 (mild telephoto 58 mm).


‏‎10:28 AM - Passau: Altes Rathaus - high-water marks on base of tower, from top down: 1501, 2013, 1595, 1954, 1787, 1862, 1899, 1895, 2002, and 1920; to the right is a sign for "Dieser Platz war der Fisch-Markt ca. 1000-1842" (This Square was the Fish Market ca. 1000-1842), above a sign for "Das Glockenspiel im Rathausturm" (The Carillon in the Town hall Tower) with its hours of operation; at the far right are blue signs indicating the address as "2 Rathausplatz" and  that the "Haupteingang" (Main Entrance) is around the corner at "Schrottgasse 1."



‏‎10:32 AM - Passau: Altes Rathaus - north side façade with modern murals depicting Emperor Ludwig the Bavarian and four flag-bearers of the electorates of Saxony, Trier, and Cologne and the Duchy of Bavaria; Rathaus tower at right.



MT ‎‏‎10:35 AM - Passau: Sharfrichter Haus  (mild telephoto 54 mm).

The Scharfrichter Haus (Executioner’s House) was built around the year 1200. Located on Milchgasse (Milk Street), it was the official residence of the city’s executioner. Early historical documents, from the 13th century to 1443, mention the building as the feared “Prislig” (prison). In the 1970s, the city of Passau was under very strong influences of conservative political parties. Consequently, a counter-cultural movement developed, and a political cabaret was performed in Passau. The editor of city’s main newspaper established a news embargo on the cabaret organization, and the General Vicar of the Diocese took the movement to court charging blasphemy. As a result, the city imposed a ban on the cabaret’s performances.
The Scharfrichterhaus of today was founded in 1977 and quickly developed into an important stage on which jazz and political cabaret is performed. Today, it also houses a coffee house, a restaurant, a wine cellar, and a repertory cinema.


‏‎10:38 AM - Passau: our guide for "Viking Bragi 13B" tour group at mural of old river boat on Danube, with sign for "Passauische Flußschiffahrt seit eh und je" (Passau Riverboat Travel from Time Immemorial) and lion he said was on a 20 m pillar.


‏‎10:39 AM - Passau: our guide for "Viking Bragi 13B" tour group at other part of mural, showing men on horses towing old river boat on Danube.


‏‎10:41 AM (Cropped) - Passau: plaque for "Rathaus Altes Zollamt" and government offices currently occupying the building.


‏‎10:41 AM - Passau: view back down street toward Rathaus tower, with Rathaus Altes Zollamt in right foreground.



‏‎10:42 AM - Passau: Rathaus Altes Zollamt.

Passau: Rathaus Altes Zollamt (Von Konrad Lackerbeck - Eigenes Werk, CC BY 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=4878446).

The Rathaus Altes Zollamt (Town Hall Old Customs Office) or Hauptzollamtsgebäude (Main Customs Office Building) on the Rathausplatz is one of the few 19th century buildings in the predominantly Baroque Old Town. In 1425, the municipal dance house was built at this site, where all dance events took place in the episcopal city.

Passau: Rathaus Altes Zollamt – memorial plaque on outside wall that translates “Here stood the municipal Dance-House ca. 1425-1848, since 1806 Royal Customs Office - Main Customs Office 2006" (Von High Contrast - Eigenes Werk, CC BY 3.0 de, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=16924685).

Due to the secularization of the Electorate of Bavaria in 1802, the building came into the possession of the royal customs administration. In 1845, the decision was made to construct a new building with a design approved by King Ludwig I. In 1848, the old building was demolished, and excavation began for the new building, which was completed in 1851 as part of the complex on Rathausplatz. In 2004, the main Customs Office in Passau was abolished. Since 2007, the brick building has been used by the city as the Town Hall Old Customs House.


MT ‎Monday, ‎August ‎20, ‎2018, ‏‎10:37 AM - Passau:  sign, in German, in store window, which translates: "Commerce and change [doings and dealings] across borders are since ancient times the heart of prosperity. Rupert Schützbach."



‏‎10:42 AM - Passau:  view of Veste Oberhaus from near Rathausplatz.

Veste Oberhaus (meaning fortress upper house) is a fortress that was founded in 1219 and for some time served as the stronghold of the Bishop of Passau. It is currently the site of a museum, a youth hostel, a restaurant, and an open-air theater. It is located on the mountain crest (St. Georgsberg) on the left (north) side of the Danube, between it and the Ilz. Below the Oberhaus, on a promontory between the two rivers is Veste Niederhaus (fortress lower house), part of the same fortress system.


Passau: aerial view of Veste Oberhaus and Veste Niederhaus near confluence of Danube and Itz, with Altes Rathaus and St. Michael’s Church at lower left (By Carsten Steger - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=105244657).


Passau: Veste Oberhaus above Veste Niederhaus (left) and 15th-century pilgrimage Church of St. Salvator (right) (By Aconcagua - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=1868545).

Veste Oberhaus was built in 1219 by Ulrich II, the first Prince-Bishop of Passau, at the previous location of a chapel dedicated to St. George. The fortress was intended to protect against both external enemies and internal threats of Passau citizens who wished to acquire the independent status of a free imperial city. As siege techniques improved, the fortress was repeatedly renovated and extended, starting in 1255-56. The inscription “1499” prominent on the façade revers to one of those renovations. The most significant rebuilding in the 17th and 18th centuries developed the fortress from a Gothic citadel into an early Renaissance princely residence. The secularization of Bavaria in 1802 brought an end to the rule of the prince-bishop. Napoleon used the fortress during his campaign against Austria, placing it under the control of his Bavarian allies as a border outpost, but in 1805 surrendered it to the Austrian army. After the Congress of Vienna in 1815, the rea was controlled by Bavaria, and for almost a century served an additional purpose as a state and military prison, feared as the “Bastille of Bavaria.”

The smaller Veste Niederhaus was made after 1367, creating a double fortress. Located below on the bank of the Danube. it is connected to the Veste Oberhaus by a battlement.


‏‎10:42 AM - Passau: overlook and small tower on battlement between Veste Oberhaus and Veste Niederhaus (telephoto 119 mm).


‏‎10:44 AM - Passau: Veste Niederhaus on promontory between the Danube and Ilz.


‏‎10:45 AM - Passau: Veste Niederhaus on promontory between the Danube and Ilz (mild telephoto 38 mm).


MT ‎‏‎10:42 AM - Passau: look back to Veste Oberhaus from east of the Prinzregent-Luitpold-Brücke suspension bridge across the Danube (mild telephoto 37 mm).


‏‎10:45 AM - Passau: look back to Veste Oberhaus from east of the Prinzregent-Luitpold-Brücke suspension bridge across the Danube.


‏‎10:50 AM - Passau: view of Veste Niederhaus from east of the Prinzregent-Luitpold-Brücke suspension bridge.

As we continued to the eastern tip of the Old Town, we came to the Kloster Niedernburg.


The Kloster Niedernburg (Niedernburg Cloister, Abbey, or Convent) is a former abbey of the Benedictines and former convent of the Engische Fräulein [English Misses] (until 2013).
The religious order originally known as the Institutum Beate Mariae Virginis (Institute of the Blessed Virgin Mary) is now officially called the Congregatio Jesu (Congregation of Jesus), but the order is commonly known as the English Misses. It was founded in 1609 with the original purpose of educating girls, at first young English girls. Since the religious community did not yet have a name, it was called the “English Misses.” Since it was founded by Mary Ward, it is sometimes referred to as the Mary Ward Sisters. The institute founded numerous branches, especially in southern Germany, where it still operates many schools. The order left Kloster Niedernburg in 2013, because the few remaining sisters were too old to continue operations.


Passau: Kloster Niedernburg (Von H.Helmlechner - Eigenes Werk, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=53957886).

The cloister was founded in 739 by the Agilofinger, an aristocratic Franconian family. In 1010, Niedernburg was awarded the imperial immediacy (being immediately subordinate to the emperor) by Emperor Heinrich II. In the 11th century, the Romanesque pillar basilica Heiligkreuz (Holy Cross) was built. In the 12th century, the second sacred building, a Marienkirche (St. Mary’s Church), was erected. In 1161, the Kloster Neidernburg was given by Emperor Friedrich Barbarosa to the Prince-Bishop of Passau, and the extensive property of the abbey could form the economic basis of the bishopric. In 1583, the prince-bishop opened the convent to the citizens’ daughters. The two fires that devastated the city of Passau in 1662 and 1680 also destroyed the convent. The Holy Cross Church and the convent building were hastily rebuilt.

The abbey church Zum Heiligen Kreuz (of the Holy Cross) is from the 11th or 12th century. The vestibule is even older. The vault in Baroque. Gothic and Baroque statues can be seen of the pillars of the nave. A late Gothic cloister is attached to the church. On the east side of the abbey is St. Mary’s Church, which was built in 1150 but has remained in ruins since the fire of 1662.


‏‎10:52 AM - Passau: Kloster Niedernburg - outside wall with historical plaques.


‏‎10:53 AM (Cropped) - Passau: plaque that translates "Here stood the Saint Mary's 
Church of the Cloister Niedernburg ca. 1130-1602" above sign that translates:
"Starting Point of the 'Goldener Steig' (Golden Trail) 19 April 1010
"Gift of an extended strip of land north of the Danube as well as the Bohenian Toll Office by King Heinrich II to the Female Cloister Niedernburg. 
"First, although only indirect evidence of the existence of the 'Golderner Steig,' a significant trade connection between Passau and Bohemia.
"1161 Gift of the Cloister Niedernburg by Kaiser Friedrich Barbarosa to the Passau Bishops, who on the basis of the rich possessions of the cloister, the 'Abbey Land,' built up their worldly territory until 1803."



Map of Goldener Steig trade routes from Passau into Bohemia (Böhmen) (By Andreas Hirsch, Bad Reichenhall at https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e8/Der_Goldene_Steig.JPG).

The Goldener Steig (Golden Trail) was the romantic name of three old pack-horse or mule tracks that led from Passau to Bohemia (in the preset-day Czech Republic). On them, salt and other southern goods were transported to the Moldau country. Three trails comprised the most important medieval pack-horse trade route of Southern Germany. All three trails started from the Hofstift (court convent) of Passau. The oldest and most traveled route (mentioned as early as 1010) was the Unterer Goldener Steig (Lower Golden Trail). In the 1010 document, Emperor Heinrich II assured the Marienkloster Niederburg in Passau of the toll income from the Goldener Steig (until their secularization). The other two routes began around 1300 and around 1356. In the middle of the 16th century, it was used by up to 1,200 horses a week, each loaded with 3 Zentner (metric hundredweight). The trails received the nickname “Golden” because of the profitable trade in salt (called “white gold”), but also because of Imperial and Royal privileges. They were used by pack horses and later by carts, leaving deep ruts that can still be seen today. The heyday of the pack-horse trade was especially in the 13th to 16th centuries. In 1526 the rule of the Habsburgs began in Bohemia. With increased import duties, they tried to force salt trade from Passau out of the Bohemian market and favored the import of salt from the Habsburg saltworks in the “Salzkammergut” via Linz to Budweis. The 1706 ban on the import of salt from Passau and Bavaria and the sovereignty of the Salzburg archbishops means an end to the salt trade on the Goldener Steig.


‏‎10:54 AM - Passau: Kloster Niedernburg - another sign that translates:
"Cloister Niedernburg
"former St. Mary's Church
"Museum Vestibule
"Romanesque Wall Paintings
"Restoration financed by Congregatio Jesu, Diocese of Passau, Rotary Club of Passau, City of Passau, State of Bavaria, Promotional Society for Preservation and Presentation of the Niedernburg Frescoes e.V. [eingetragener Verein = registered society or association]."


MT ‎‏‎10:49 AM - Passau: Kloster Niedernburg - our Viking tour guide by that sign for "Museum Vorhalle - romanische Wandmalereien"  (Museum Vestibule - Romanesque ceiling frescoes) and same list of organizations that financed the restoration.


5845 ‎Monday, ‎August ‎20, ‎2018, ‏‎10:54 AM - Passau: Kloster Niedernburg - Romanesque ceiling frescoes of former Church of St. Mary.


‏‎10:54 AM - Passau: Kloster Niedernburg - Romanesque ceiling and wall frescoes of former Church of St. Mary.


‏‎11:00 AM - Passau: Kloster Niedernburg - old engraving of Passau "Patuvium - Passaw" with key to callouts at bottom: A = [the] City, B = Ober hausen, C - Nieder hausen, D = the Cathedral, E = [Iesamer?], F = In[n] City. G = Maria Hilf Cloister, H = Capucian Cloister, I = [St.] Bartholome. 



‏‎11:02 AM - Passau: between Kloster Niedernburg and the Danube - "Fischerbedarf [Fishermen's Needs] Anton Hartl" building at "Bräugasse 18" [Brewery Street] with historical plaques. 


‏‎11:02 AM (Cropped) - Passau: between Kloster Niedernburg and the Danube - building at "Bräugasse 18" [Brewery Street] with three historical plaques: top one (hard to read) for high-water mark in 1501 and the other two for high-water marks in 1954 and 2013. 



‎11:04 AM - Passau: Bürgerliches Waisenhaus - façade with entrance to chapel.



‏‎11:04 AM - Passau: Bürgerliches Waisenhaus with statue of St. John Nepomuk



MT ‎‏‎11:00 AM - Passau: Bürgerliches Waisenhaus - façade with entrance to chapel (mild telephoto 53 mm).


Passau: Bürgerliches Waisenhaus - façade with entrance to chapel (Von Ricardalovesmonuments - Eigenes Werk, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=80413908).

The Bürgerliches Waisenhaus (Bourgeois Orphanage) is also called Lukas-Kern-Waisenhaus or Lukas-Kern-Kinderheim (Childrens’ Home). In 1749, the ship master and innkeeper Lukas Kern donated 72,400 florins in his will to establish an orphanage in Passau. Between 1750 and 1762, it was built as a four-wing complex at the confluence of the Danube and Inn rivers. The entrance to the orphanage chapel has its own façade, without interrupting the front line. There is a fresco painting framed with stucco. The paintings flanking the portal show the founder Lukas Kern and his wife Anna Theresia, and above the portal is the Virgin Mary with 12 stars around her head. The interior of the chapel is also decorated with rich stucco work.


Passau: Bürgerliches Waisenhaus - entrance to chapel (Von Konrad Lackerbeck - Selbst fotografiert, CC BY-SA 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=1697271).

In 1758, the first children moved into the orphanage, which was still run by the Mary Ward Sisters until 2013.


Passau: Bürgerliches Waisenhaus – statue of St. Johannes Nepomuk with five stars around his head (Von Konrad Lackerbeck - Eigenes Werk, CC0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=48928592).

In the square in front of the orphanage is a statue of St. Johannes Nepomuk from 1759 (restored in 1901, after being damaged in the flood of 1899, and 1957). On the pedestal is a coat of arms with the year 1759.

Sankt Johannes von Nepomuk (St. John of Nepomuk) (ca. 1345-1393) was confessor to the Queen of Bohemia and refused to divulge the secrets of the confessional. At the behest of King Wenceslaus IV of Bohemia, he was tortured and thrown into the Vltava River from the Charles Bridge in Prague and drowned. He is usually portrayed with a halo of five stars, commemorating the stars that hovered over the Vltava River on the night of his murder, the palm of martyrs, and a large crucifix at which he is usually looking. The statue on Passau closely resembles the prototypical statue of him in on the Charles Bridge in Prague.


‏‎11:05 AM (Cropped) - Passau: Bürgerliches Waisenhaus - plaque, on façade to far right of entrance, which referred to "Waisenhaus" and helped Don later identify the building.


‏‎11:05 AM - Passau: Bürgerliches Waisenhaus - view into chapel, toward main altar


‏‎11:05 AM - Passau: Bürgerliches Waisenhaus - view into chapel, with stucco work on left side wall.


‏‎11:06 AM - Passau: Bürgerliches Waisenhaus - Latin inscription over chapel entrance (telephoto 72 mm).


‏‎11:06 AM - Passau: Bürgerliches Waisenhaus - signs for high-water marks: top to bottom 2013, 1954 (with drawing of St. Christopher crossing river), 1787 from Danube, 1899, and 1786 from Inn; and blue sign for street name "Ort" (telephoto 105 mm).


‏‎11:07 AM - Passau: Bürgerliches Waisenhaus - side door with address "Ort 10" and plaque above door.


‏‎11:07 AM - Passau: Bürgerliches Waisenhaus - plaque above side door about the donation of Lukas Kern with date "1751" (telephoto 72 mm).



‏‎11:08 AM - Passau: view from near Bürgerliches Waisenhaus toward Pilgrimage Church Mariahilf, on hill across the Inn.



MT ‎‏‎11:07 AM - Passau: view from near Bürgerliches Waisenhaus toward Pilgrimage Church Mariahilf, on hill across the Inn (telephoto 87 mm).


Passau: Mariahilf Church (Von Mattana - Eigenes Werk, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=14900024).

The Wallfahrtskirche Mariahilf (Pilgrimage Church Mariahilf) rises high on a hill south of the Inn River. The pilgrimage was founded in 1662, when the Cathedral Dean Marquard von Schwendi had a chapel built here with a picture of the Virgin Mary that a Passau artist had made in 1620 as a copy of the miraculous image of Mariahilf by Lucas Cranach the Elder (1472-1553). Schwendi’s Schlösschen (little castle) is opposite the portal of the pilgrimage church. The church itself was built in 1624-27, and the Capuchins were put in charge. The eye-catching spire helmets were not added until 1665. A covered staircase for pilgrims, laid out in 1628, comprises 321 steps leading directly up to the Baroque abbey complex. There is an early Baroque crucifix at the entrance to the staircase. The church was a highly significant shrine to the Virgin Mary.

When Vienna was besieged by the Turks in 1683, Emperor Leopold I fled to Passau. In front of the miraculous image, the imperial couple prayed daily for rescue from the Turkish threat. When a Christian alliance, under the battle cry “Maria Hilf” (Mary Help), won the Battle of Kahlenberg to end the siege, the Passau “Mariahilf” image became the state image of grace for the Habsburg monarchy. With the secularization of 1803, the Capuchin abbey was dissolved and the pilgrimage came to an abrupt halt. In the course of the Restoration, more frequent pilgrimages were allowed again, and a pilgrimage priests’ convict was established in 1831. The Capuchins returned in 1890. The church is still an important place of pilgrimage today. In 2002, the Pauliner took over the care of the pilgrimage church from the Capuchins.


MT ‎‏‎11:04 AM - Passau: view from near Bürgerliches Waisenhaus toward Pilgrimage Church Mariahilf, on hill across the Inn and Schaiblingsturm tower on near side of Inn.


‏‎11:08 AM - Passau: near Bürgerliches Waisenhaus - view back up the Inn to Schaiblingsturm tower.



‏‎11:11 AM - Passau:  closer view of Schaiblingsturm tower and arch on north bank of Inn.

The Schaiblingsturm (Schaibling Tower) is one of the landmarks of Passau. It stands on the south side of the Old Town near the eastern tip of the town, on a rock rising from the Inn on the Innkai (Inn Quay) river promenade. Its name may be derived from the conical shape of the tower walls (German Scheibe, meaning disc or circular shape). The round tower with its high pointed roof was part of the medieval fortifications of Passau.
The Schaiblingsturm was built around 1250 as a bulwark against attacks from the Inn. Another important function was to protect ships from the waves of the Inn. The tower also served as a storage facility for powder, and during the time of the salt trade, the ships that brought salt up the Inn to Passau moored there. In 1481, the tower was renovated, and its conical roof was one of the few medieval roof structures that were not destroyed by city fires. It was restored in 1921 but then weathered rather badly. In the latest extensive renovation in 2004, the original plaster still remaining from 1481, covering the entire tower built from granite stones, was secured and partially renewed.
The tower has three floors above a natural stone base. The three rooms with five key notches on the ground floor and six right-angled windows on the upper floors are connected by a staircase from the northeast. A wooden spiral staircase inside the tower leads visitors up to the roof.
In 1970, the tower became the property of the Leopoldinum Gymnasium (secondary school). The tower is accessible only from the Leopoldinum site via a covered walkway above the arch over the river-side promenade.


MT ‎‏‎11:16 AM - Passau:  our tour group going through a narrow passage between buildings.


‏‎11:16 AM - Passau:  view up street to towers of Kloster Niedernburg.



‏‎11:17 AM - Passau: statue on side of house on Jesuitengasse (telephoto 72 mm and Cropped).


‏‎11:18 AM - Passau: street sign on corner (of same house) for "Jesuitengasse" (Jesuit Street).



‏‎11:19 AM - Passau: view from "Jesuitengasse" (sign on corner in foreground) of two buildings with artwork of Virgin and Child above storefronts: Bäckerei Riederer (bakery in Michaeligasse) with painting and Wing Chun Kung Fu (at Michaeligasse 10) with statue in niche.

We turned left (south) on Michaeligasse toward the Leopoldinum and the St. Michael’s Church.


‏‎11:19 AM - Passau:  Leopoldinum Gymnasium - door at "Michaeligasse 15" with "Gymnasium" (secondary school) above it, along with partial date "16[64]" at sides, and sign to left of door for "Ehehamiges Jesuitenkolleg" (Former Jesuit College).


Passau:  Leopoldinum Gymnasium – south side, facing the Inn, with round Schaiblingsturm attached  right and St. Michael’s Church on left (By Von Aconcagua - Eigenes Werk, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=2214483).

The Leopoldinum Gymnasium is one of four secondary schools in Passau. It is one of the oldest schools in Germany. Its history goes back to the Passau Cathedral School, established by the Diocese of Passau in 739 to train the clergy. The heyday of the school was chronicled in the 9th century by Abbot Godehard of the Niederaltaich Monastery and in the 11th to 13th centuries by the names of the leading teachers.

Like many other cathedral schools, it was operated as a Latin school from the 14th century due to the establishment of universities. In 1611, Bishop Leopold V called the Austrian Jesuits to Passau, who took over the school as a Jesuit college. On 1612, the Jesuit college became the first secondary school in Passau. By 1617, the Jesuits had erected the building that is still the main building of the Leopoldinum.
From 1892, the school was consistently referred to as a Gymnasium (first royal humanistic Secondary School in Passau). From 1918-65, it was called Humanistic Gymnasium Passau. In 1965, it was renamed Gymnasium Leopoldinum, with a focus on humanistic-modern language. From 1992, it was a European Secondary School, and since 2013, the Leopoldinum has again been a linguistic and humanistic secondary school (starting from the 5th grade).


Leopoldinum Gymnasium – portal on north side, with two-part date “1664” at sides of “Gymnasium” (By Von Photo: Andreas Praefcke - Selbst fotografiert, CC BY 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=9552279).


‏‎11:20 AM - Passau:  view down street (Schustergasse) of north side and tower of Jesuit Church St. Michael.


‏‎11:21 AM - Passau:  Church St. Michael - northwest tower and part of the west façade.



Passau:  Church St. Michael – west façade and south side (Von Konrad Lackerbeck - Selbst fotografiert, CC BY-SA 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=1428183).

The Kirche St. Michael (St. Michael’s Church), also called Studienkirche (Study Church) or Jesuitenkirche (Jesuit Church), is a 17th-century single-nave building with later additions in the Baroque style. It is attached to the Leopoldinum school.

As early as 1329, there is evidence of a St. Michael’s Church in Michaeligasse, north of the present church. Soon after the Prince-Bishop summoned the Jesuits to Passau in 1611, they built the first church here in 1612, as a house chapel of the Jesuit College. That church was destroyed in the city fire of 1662. In 1665-78, the Jesuits, supported by the Prince-Bishop, built St. Michael’s Church. The church and the adjoining school have typically Italian exteriors. The exterior of the church was made relatively simple at the request of the bishop to avoid competing with the Cathedral. Today, the church is owned by the Free State of Bavaria.
The church is on the north side if the Inn, just before it joins the Danube. With the address Schustergasse 14, the church faces Schustergasse on its west and north sides. The south side faces the Innkai river-side promenade, and the east side adjoins the Leopoldinum.


‏‎11:25 AM - Passau:  building on left is "Hofapotheke zum schwarzen Adler" (Court Pharmacy of the Black Eagle), located at Residenzplatz 12. 

The Hofapotheke zum schwarzen Adler (Court Pharmacy of the Black Eagle), located at Residenzplatz 12, was first mentioned in 1384, in the will of the first well-known court pharmacist in Passau. Thus, is the oldest pharmacy in Bavaria and one of the oldest in Germany. The court pharmacists were allowed to display the Prince-Bishlop’s Coat of arms. The coat of arms of the House of Habsburg, with a double-headed black eagle, was probably attached during the Thirty Years’ War (1618-48). Over the years, it was replaced by the coats of arms of other ruling families. However, the Habsburg coat of arms is displayed above the entrance today, reminiscent of the first coat of rms given to the pharmacy. Although the pharmacy was mostly called just Hofapotheke, the addition of “Black Eagle” also reflects that legacy. It was in the same family for 8 generations, from 1753 until 2014.
The 3-story building with a Baroque façade essentially dates from the 16th and 17th centuries.  After the city fires of 1662 and 1680, the house was renovated. With few exceptions, it has retained its Baroque stucco and vaulted ceilings. In 1993 and 2000, the entire building was rebuilt and modernized and expanded to a total of 5 floors.

 Next, we headed toward St. Stephen's Cathedral, but first came to the New Bishop's Residence and the Old Bishop's Residence.



‏‎11:25 AM - Passau:  St. Stephen's Cathedral - apse (under renovation) central dome, and northwest tower, with statue of Wittelsbach Fountain on Residenzplatz in right foreground (telephoto 72 mm).

The Residenzplatz (Residence Square) is one of the few open spaces in the tightly packed Old Town. It is lined with residences of wealthy families. It offers a fine view of the Cathedral’s resplendent east (apse) end, the only significant section remaining from the Gothic period. The square is named for the New Bishop’s Residence, which is located on it.

The Fürstbischofliche Residenz (Prince-Bishop’s Residence) is a 200-meter-long complex of buildings along the banks of the Inn and opposite the Cathedral. The complex consists of the Alte Bischofsresidenz (Old Bishop’s Residence), which today houses the district court, and the Neue Bischofsresidenz (New Bishop’s Residence). The old and new residences are connected by the so-called Saalbau (Hall Building), which originally housed the Fürstbischofliche Hofbibliothek (Prince-Bishop’s Court Library) and is now the Domschatz-und-Diozesanmuseum (Cathedral Treasury and Diosecan Museum).

In front of the passage below the southern cathedral tower to the Zengergasse is the so-called Fürstliche Neugebäud (Princely New Building), also called sala terrena because of its terrace garden. It was built in 1708 and housed a post office until 2003.


MT ‎‏‎11:22 AM - Passau:  St. Stephen's Cathedral - apse (under renovation) central dome, and part of northwest tower, with New Bishop's Residence on left and our tour guide for "Viking Bragi 13B" in right foreground (mild telephoto 56 mm).


‏‎11:26 AM - Passau:  St. Stephen's Cathedral - apse (under renovation) central dome, and northwest tower, with New Bishop's Residence on far left and our tour guide for "Viking Bragi 13B" in left foreground (mild telephoto 44 mm).



‏‎11:27 AM - Passau:  New Bishop's Residence - façade with entrance at far end.


New Bishop's Residence – other end of façade with entrance at right
(Von Die Autorenschaft wurde nicht in einer maschinell lesbaren Form angegeben. Es wird Konrad Lackerbeck als Autor angenommen (basierend auf den Rechteinhaber-Angaben). - Die Autorenschaft wurde nicht in einer maschinell lesbaren Form angegeben. Es wird angenommen, dass es sich um ein eigenes Werk handelt (basierend auf den Rechteinhaber-Angaben)., CC BY-SA 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=1359590).

The Neue Bischofsresidenz (New Bishop’s Residence), built in 1713-30 in the late Baroque style, has a pilaster façade with two portals and a roof balustrade from 1765 to 1771. Two protruding balconies are marked with the dates 1770 and 1771. Located at Residenzplatz 8, it was the Baroque town palace of the Prince-Bishops of Passau. Part of it now houses the entrance to the Domschatz-und-Diozesanmuseum (Cathedral Treasury. The façade faces the beautiful carved stone Wittelsbacherbrunnen (Wittlesbach Fountain) in the cobblestoned Residenzplatz.


‏‎11:27 AM - Passau:  New Bishop's Residence - ornate entrance portal.


‏‎11:27 AM - Passau:  view from New Bishop's Residence to Cathedral apse, with narrow Zengergasse between the two buildings.


‏‎11:28 AM - Passau:  our guide leading "Viking Brage 13B" tour group into narrow Zengergasse with console pillars of Cathedral at right.


‏‎11:28 AM - Passau: farther down narrow Zengergasse with Cathedral at right.


‏‎11:29 AM - Passau: still farther down narrow Zengergasse with Cathedral at right and its south tower straight ahead.


MT ‎‏‎11:25 AM - Passau: a bit farther down narrow Zengergasse with Cathedral at right.


‏‎11:29 AM - Passau: Old Bishop's Residence - plaques on Zengergasse; the top one translates: "Old Bishop's Residence documented 1173, today's building 14th-17th century" and "In 1683, Emperor Leopold I took  Prince Eugen of Savoy into his service" and the one below "In the court of Bishop Wolfger von Erla  [in office] 1191 to 1204, around 1200 the Nibelungenlied was created" and "In 1203, the Minnesinger [poet] Walther von der Vogelweide was mentioned in the Bishop's documents."


Passau:  Old Bishop's Residence – south side is the yellow building in the foreground, with the Cathedral behind it (Von Aconcagua - Eigenes Werk, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=2214103).

The core of the Alte Bischofsresidenz (Old Bishop’s Residence), located at Zengergasse 1, dates from the 13th century. The oldest preserved part is a Romanesque door frame from 1180.  The current building essentially dates from the 15th to 17th centuries and was restored after the city fires of 1662 and 1680., a short distance from the apse of St. Stephen’s Cathedral. From the front door, it is just a short walk along a narrow street under an archway to the Cathedral. In the east is the Hofkapelle (Court Chapel), secularized in 1803, with a portal from 1693. The chapel room now serves as the courtroom for the Landgericht (Regional Court).


‏‎11:29 AM - Passau: Old Bishop's Residence - ornate portal on Zengergasse.


‏‎11:30 AM - Passau: Old Bishop's Residence - another portal, on east end, to Court Chapel, with sign on wall at right for "Landgericht" (Regional Court) and "Amtsgericht" (District Court).


‏‎11:30 AM - Passau: continuing down narrow Zengergasse toward south tower of Cathedral with gateway to Domplatz at base of tower.


‏‎11:33 AM - Passau: Cathedral - west façade and towers (backlit).


Passau: Cathedral - west façade and towers (Von Art Anderson, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=59604533).

The Dom St. Stephan (St. Stephen’s Cathedral) is a true masterpiece of Italian Baroque architecture. Since 730, there have been many cathedrals on this site. The current church was built from 1668 to 1693 to replace an early Gothic structure from 1221-1313, which was largely destroyed by fire in 1662. (All that remains from that earlier building is the late Gothic three-aisled apse, transept, and crossing tower created between 1407 and 1598, which were incorporated into the Baroque construction.) It is suitably enthroned at the highest point in the Old Town, facing the Domplatz (Cathedral Square). It is one of the largest cathedrals with the largest Baroque church interior north of the Alps. Its most notable furnishing is what used to be the world’s largest organ (now it is the largest church organ outside the US). The organ currently has 17,774 pipes and 233 separate registers, all of which can be played with a five-manual general console in the gallery. Organ recitals are given every weekday at noon.

The two-tower Baroque façade is on the east side of the Domplatz. The fact that two huge buildings from the late Gothic and Baroque periods fit together so harmoniously inside and out to form a balanced whole makes this special among all cathedral in the German cultural area. The green domes of the crossing tower and towers of the west façade, called Bohemian caps or Platzl vaults, give the building an unmistakable appearance. The octagonal upper floors of the wet towers with the neo-Baroque hoods were not added until 1896. In the basement of the south tower, a gate opens into the narrow Zengergasse, which separates the Cathedral from the Old Bishop’s Residence. This runs along the south side of the Cathedral to the Residenzplatz past the east end of the Cathedral. From there, the late Gothic apse with its filigree buttresses is visible. At the exit from Zengergsse to Residenzplatz, the construction of the eastern buttress of the southern transept, which is a console pillar, is structurally interesting and unique for the 15th century. This unusual construction was necessary to keep access to the Old Residence free for carriages that could not turn in the narrow alley.


‏‎11:33 AM - Passau: Cathedral - west façade and south tower with gateway to Zengergasse at its base (backlit).


‏‎11:33 AM - Passau: Cathedral - north tower and west façade (backlit). 

Shortly after 11:30, our guided tour ended in front of the Cathedral, where the Viking Bragi Program Director Joey gave us our tickets for the organ concert.


‏‎11:36 AM - Passau: Cathedral - Don's ticket to "Mittagskonzert" (noon concert) of the famous organ. 

 On our way into the Cathedral for the concert, we passed through the Domhof (Cathedral Courtyard).



Passau: Cathedral - Domhof with fountain in center (Von Photo: Andreas Praefcke - Selbst fotografiert, CC BY 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=8544886).

The Domhof (Cathedral Courtyard) is a large inner courtyard on the north side of the Cathedral. The former cathedral cloister with its Gothic portal, which serves as entrance to the Cathedral during church services, is a remnant of the cathedral monastery referred to in 739. The cloister was demolished in 1812. The tombstones displayed here were in the Andreas Chapel until 1961/62, but originally came mostly from other chapels that were demolished in 1812. (The Andreas Chapel, from around 1300, is located on the east side of the Domplatz.) In the center of the courtyard is the Patronatsbrunnen  (Patronage Fountain) in concrete and bronze with statues of the four patron saints of Passau.


‏‎11:38 AM - Passau: Cathedral - view of bell tower from inner courtyard.


‏‎11:38 AM - Passau: Cathedral - view of other bell tower from inner courtyard.


‏‎11:39 AM - Passau: Cathedral - old tombstones in inner courtyard.


‏‎11:39 AM (Cropped) - Passau: Cathedral - old tombstones in inner courtyard.



‏‎11:40 AM - Passau: Cathedral - view from our pew (near transept) to apse, before the concert.


Passau: Cathedral – view from rear of central nave to apse (Von Thomas Ledl - Eigenes Werk, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=39836039).


Passau: Cathedral – floor plan of 100-meter-long cathedral (Von User:UHT - selbst erstellt nach Buchvorlage von 1928, Gemeinfrei, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=6057403).

The interior of the three-aisled nave is structured with six yokes separated by wide belt arches. This is followed by the dome at the crossing and finally a single-nave choir (apse). The lavish stucco work is underlaid with numerous figurative structures. The Italian frescoes in the central nave from 1679-84 culminate in the crossing dome painting with God the Father in the midst of the Evangelists, and in the apse fresco depicting the stoning of St. Stephen. The aisles were painted by another Italian in 1688. The choir loft yoke is dedicated to music. In each of the remaining five bays of the central nave, four virtues (as allegorical female figures), as well as putti holding scrolls and Old Testament prophets, are thematically assigned to the ceiling painting in stucco.


MT ‏‎11:36 AM - Passau: Cathedral - view from our pew (near transept) to main altar in apse, before the concert.



MT ‎‏‎11:49 AM - Passau: Cathedral - view from our pew (near transept) of left side of nave and part of ceiling frescoes, before the concert.



‏‎11:40 AM - Passau: Cathedral - view from our pew (near transept) of ceiling frescoes of fourth and fifth yokes and part of crossing dome, before concert.
 


Passau: Cathedral – ceiling fresco of Victory of the New Covenant (the Christian Church) and Triumphal Procession in 4th yoke (Von Carpoforo Tencalla - Selbst fotografiert, Gemeinfrei, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=9561189).

 The fourth yoke represents the triumph of the Church. The prophets Malachai, Jeremiah, Solomon, and Joel and the virtues of sincerity, unity, wisdom, and justice are represented.

Passau: Cathedral – ceiling fresco of Victory of the Catholic Church in 5th yoke (Von Mattana - Eigenes Werk, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=14903775).

The fifth yoke, as the last before the crossing, represents the triumph of the Catholic Church. The prophets Isaiah, Ezekiel, Baruch, and Zachariah and the virtues of contemplation, chastity, receptivity, and the Catholic religion are depicted here.


MT ‏‎11:39 AM - Passau: Cathedral - 
view from our pew (near transept) toward rear of nave with organ.



‏‎11:41 AM - Passau: Cathedral - view from our pew (near transept) toward rear of nave as group led by Sue and Marilyn from Leavenworth, KS enters for the concert.



‏‎11:42 AM - Passau: Cathedral - view from our pew (near transept) of Marilyn, Sue, and other people from Leavenworth, KS across the aisle from us, and side altar.
 


Passau: Cathedral – side altar in south aisle (Von Mattis - Eigenes Werk, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=109729505).


‏‎11:43 AM - Passau: Cathedral - view from our pew (near transept) of Marilyn (standing in aisle), Sue's husband John (standing behind her), Sue (sitting behind John), and other people from Leavenworth, KS sitting across the aisle from us, and side altar.



‏‎11:43 AM - Passau: Cathedral - view from our pew (near transept) toward rear of central nave with organ in loft.


‎11:43 AM - Passau: Cathedral - center section of organ in loft (telephoto 105 mm).


‏‎11:45 AM - Passau: Cathedral - main altar with stoning of St. Stephen (telephoto 81 mm).

The main altar depicting the stoning of St. Stephen, was created from 1947 to 1953.


‏‎11:47 AM - Passau: Cathedral - MT in aisle talking with Pat from Leavenworth, whose husband Doug was also there.


‏‎11:54 AM - Passau: Cathedral - John, Sue, and Marilyn and others from Leavenworth, across the aisle from us.


‏‎12:01 PM - Passau: Cathedral - view from our pew toward apse, with Mike from Lansing, KS, who came forward to take photo in aisle.


‏‎12:03 PM - Passau: Cathedral - view from our pew toward apse with main altar.


‏‎12:03 PM - Passau: Cathedral - view from our pew toward apse and transept to right.

No photos were allowed during the organ concert 12:00-12:30 pm.


‏‎12:37 PM - Passau: Cathedral - view from near transept to rear of central nave with ceiling frescoes, after concert.



MT ‎‏‎12:37 PM - Passau: Cathedral - ceiling fresco of Victory of the New Covenant (the Christian Church) and Triumphal Procession, in 4th yoke, and up into dome at crossing, after concert. 



Passau: Cathedral – fresco in ceiling of cupola of dome at crossing (By Carpoforo Tencalla - Self-photographed, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=9561272).

The fresco on the ceiling of the cupola, from 1679-85, pictures God the Father surrounded by the choir of angels.


‏‎12:39 PM - Passau: Cathedral - organ center section and two side sections in loft at rear of nave.


‏‎12:41 PM - Passau: Cathedral - MT, Marilyn, Sue, and John after concert at rear of nave.


‏‎12:43 PM - Passau: Cathedral - main altar with stoning of St. Stephen (telephoto 156 mm).



‏‎12:44 PM - Passau: Cathedral - pulpit.


‏‎11:44 PM - Passau: Cathedral - closer view of pulpit, taken from our pew before the concert.


MT ‏‎12:34 PM - Passau: Cathedral - Don by pulpit.


MT ‎Monday, ‎August ‎20, ‎2018, ‏‎12:34 PM - Passau: Cathedral - MT in central aisle with main altar in apse in background.


MT ‎‏‎12:35 PM - Passau: Cathedral - organ in loft at rear of nave, on our way out of the Cathedral (mild telephoto 39 mm).


‏‎12:48 PM - Passau: view back toward Altes Rathaus to the east, with MT in foreground.

Then we went back to the Viking Bragi for lunch, and after that we headed up to the Veste Oberhaus.



MT ‏‎2:49 PM - Passau: flowers on sidewalk near dock.



‏‎2:56 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus on north side of Danube and Luitpoldbrücke suspension bridge we would cross to get there.
 
See earlier note on Veste Oberhaus and Veste Niederhaus.


‏‎2:57 PM - Passau: Veste Niederhaus from suspension bridge  (telephoto 81 mm).



‏‎2:59 PM - Passau: - MT in background behind sign for "Donauleiten von Passau bis Jochenstein" (Danube Ridge from Passau to Jochenstein) with subtitle "Gebietsteil Oberhauser Leite" (Sector Oberhaus Ridge)
; German text at left translates in part:
"Dear Friend of Nature, did you know that the narrow Danube valley from Passau downward to the Austrian Ashach is not only a romantic backdrop for ship excursions? Because of its rear and rich in variety plant and animal world, it is a trans-regionally important nature landscape and therefore designated as a Flora and Fauna Habitat Area, part of the European Protected Area Natura 2000.
. . . . .
"From the Ilzstadt of Passau to the [Austrian] border below Jochenstein, the steep south banks have been a nature protected area since 1986. The Oberhaus ridge forms the upper end of this outstanding nature landscape. Since 1938, the city of Passau has designated it as a natural monument."

The German Leite, pl. Leiten, means steep slope or ridge. The nature reserve "Donauleiten von Passau bis Jochenstein" (Danube Ridge from Passau to Jochenstein) is part of the European protected area system Natura 2000. It extends in several sections over a length of approx. 30 km. It is part of the 90-km-long narrow valley in the southeast of the Bohemian Massif between Hofkirchen on the Danube in Bavaria and the Ashach in Upper Austria. It consists mostly of south-facing steep slopes.
Itzstadt (Ilz City) is an unofficial district of the city of Passau. It lies on both sides of the Ilz River to the northeast of Passau.
The Jochenstein is a small rocky island on German territory near the Austrian border, which forms the central border between the Danube up to and below Jochenstein; the island also gives its name to a village. Ashach an der Donau is a municipality in Upper Austria.


MT ‎‏‎2:55 PM - Passau: MT starting up steps of Ludwigsteig with that sign 
for "Donauleiten von Passau bis Jochenstein" at base of steps.



‏‎3:00 PM - Passau: partially overgrown sign in German that translates "The Ludwigsteig [Ludwig Path] blasted out of the cliffs in the year 1893 was dedicated to Prince Ludwig of Bavaria as Protector of the Forest Society and examined by him on 22 May 1897."


Passau: the beginning of the Ludwigsteig – sign as base of first steps (By Stefan Daller at https://regiowiki.pnp.de/wiki/Datei:Wanderung-Passau-2012_01.jpg).

The Ludwigsteig (Ludwig Path) is a footpath on Georgsberg in Passau. It leads from the Angerstraße at the north end of Luitpoldbrücke (Leopold Bridge) up to the Veste Oberhaus. The battlements of the castle can also be reached via a junction.


‏‎3:01 PM - Passau: view from partway up the steps of Ludwigsteig  of Luitpoldbrücke suspension bridge and Old Town.


‎3:03 PM - Passau: view from Ludwigsteig  to east down the Danube to Veste Niederhaus (at left, above tunnel) and confluence with the Inn.

Partway up the hill, we had the option of continuing on the stairs (10 min) or on a footpath (sign said 20 min, but it took more like 30 when we followed it).


‏‎3:05 PM - Passau: Ludwigsteig - sign, in German, English and Czech, for options: "Footpath to Veste Oberhaus via the battlement (approx. 10 minutes)" with arrow pointing to right, up the steps) and "Footpath to Castle Oberhaus over the 
Ludwigstiege [sic!] (about 20 min.) ends at the Thingplatz (House of Youth, Youthhostel [sic!], Observatorium)" with arrow pointing to left.


‏‎3:12 PM - Passau: Ludwigsteig - MT at one of the several switchbacks on the path.


MT ‎‏‎3:09 PM - Passau: Ludwigsteig - Don at one of the several switchbacks on the path.


MT ‏‎3:13 PM - Passau: Ludwigsteig - MT at rough spot on the path.



‏‎3:25 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - view of Danube, Old Town, and Inn from Batterie Linde (Linde Battery) lookout point at top of Ludwigsteig path.


MT ‎‏‎3:21 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - view of Danube, Old Town, and Inn from Batterie Linde (Linde Battery) lookout point at top of Ludwigsteig path.


‏‎3:25 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - view of Danube, Old Town, the Inn, and Innstadt (on the other side of the Inn), from a bit farther west at top of Ludwigsteig path.

Innstadt (Inn City, pop. 6,081) is a district in the city of Passau. It is the only official district of Passau. It is the only part of Passau located to the right (south) of the Inn River. It is bounded by the Inn and the border with Austria.

 


‏‎3:25 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - part of fortress at left and view of Old Town, Innstadt, and Inn (near confluence) from observation point.


MT ‎‏‎3:21 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - part of fortress at left and view of tip of Old Town, Inn (near confluence), and Innstadt, from observation point (mild telephoto 62 mm).



‏‎3:26 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - view of Cathedral from observation point (telephoto 105 mm).

‏‎3:26 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - part of fortress close to top of path and street leading to Generalsgebäude (General's Building).


MT ‎‏‎3:22 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - part of fortress close to top of path (mild telephoto 62 mm).


MT ‎‏‎3:30 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - Don and MT at observation point, with part of fortress and confluence in background.

We took an elevator to the top of the observation tower (to come back down, we went from Level 0 to -2).


‏‎3:32 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - view from observation tower of main buildings around courtyard (Thingplatz including hostel?).


‏‎3:33 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - view from observation tower of south end of courtyard and confluence of Danube and Inn at tip of Old Town.


‎3:34 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - view from observation tower of Old Town, including Cathedral and St. Paul's Church, between Danube and Inn (one of the cruise ships docked on Danube is probably the Viking Bragi).


‏‎3:34 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - view from observation tower of Old town between Danube and Inn (farther to left, including St. Michael's Church and Altes Rathaus at left and Cathedral at right).


MT ‎‏‎3:31 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - view from observation tower of Old town between Danube and Inn (farther to left, including Cathedral and St. Paul's Church).


‏‎3:34 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - view from observation tower of Old Town between Danube and Inn (farther to left, including St. Paul's Church, Luitpoldbrücke, Niedernburg Cloister Church (near far end of bridge), and confluence).


‎3:34 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - view from observation tower of buildings around courtyard, confluence, Luitpoldbrücke, and Old town including Niedernburg Cloister Church (near far end of bridge).


‏‎3:35 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - view from observation tower of buildings around courtyard, with Chapel of St. George behind it, and confluence.


Passau: Veste Oberhaus – Chapel of St. George (By Dguendel - Own work, CC BY 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=99931465).

The Georgskapelle (Chapel of St. George) is in the inner courtyard. Its basic structure dates back to the first construction phase of the fortress during the 13th century and was later renovated in the Baroque style. The fortress was built on the site of a previously existing chapel dedicated to St. George.



Passau: Veste Oberhaus – Chapel of St. George on inner courtyard (By Ricardalovesmonuments - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=80413555).


MT ‎‏‎3:39 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - tower of Generalsgebäude.


‏‎3:42 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - towers.


‏‎3:42 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - towers and part of courtyard.

Then we took the elevator back down from Level 0 to Level -2.


‏‎3:46 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - inside courtyard, with hostel on right.


MT ‎‏‎3:42 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - inside courtyard, with hostel on right and Don by tree in foreground.


‏‎3:47 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - inside courtyard, MT taking photo at base of old wall.


MT ‎‏‎3:44 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - inside courtyard, MT at base of old wall.


‏‎3:47 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - inside courtyard, more of old wall with part of wooden staircase.


‏‎3:48 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - inside courtyard, wooden staircase and ramparts on old wall.



‏‎3:53 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - inside courtyard, entrance to Oberhaus Museum with modern bronze statue of Wagenlenkerin (Female Charioteer) at left.


Passau: Veste Oberhaus – Wagenlenkerin sculpture near entrance of Oberhaus Museum (By Gras-Ober, Wikipedia/Wikimedia Commons (cc-by-sa-3.0), CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=33060096).

Since 1987, the courtyard has displayed the sculpture Wagenlenkerin (Female Charioteer) by  Professor Hans Wimmer (1907-1992). Wimmer, an artist with a penchant for horses,  personally set up a collection of his works that opened in 1987 at the Oberhaus Museum.



Passau: Veste Oberhaus – Wagenlenkerin sculpture near entrance of Oberhaus Museum (By Dguendel - Own work, CC BY 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=100011296).


MT ‎‏‎3:55 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - inside courtyard, MT hitching a ride with the Wagenlenkerin (before we noticed a sign asking visitors to stay off the statue).


MT ‎‏‎3:57 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - inside courtyard, Don in narrow niche leading to barred door.


4:00 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - inside courtyard, to left of Museum, with Generalbäude at far left.


4:02 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - inside courtyard, more around to left and uphill, with Generalbäude at far left near part of old wall.


4:02 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - more uphill, with part of old wall.


4:05 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - MT going through gate to higher courtyard and overlook, with lion and coats of arms over the gate.


MT ‎4:11 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - higher courtyard and overlook, with view of Old Town; Altes Rathaus in foreground with St. Michael's Church behind it and Pilgrimage Church Mariahilf on hill beyond the Inn (mild telephoto 65 mm).


MT ‎4:10 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - higher courtyard and overlook, with view of Cathedral in Old Town; cruise ships docked on Danube in foreground and the Inn in distance to right (mild telephoto 47 mm).


4:14 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - higher courtyard and overlook, with view of St. Paul's Church and the Inn in distance to left (mild telephoto 56 mm).


4:14 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - higher courtyard and overlook, with view of Pilgrimage Church Mariahilf on hill beyond the Inn (telephoto 156 mm).


4:14 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - higher courtyard and overlook, with view of Pilgrimage Church Mariahilf on hill beyond the Inn, with Altes Rathaus and St. Michael's Church in left foreground (telephoto 93 mm).


4:14 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - higher courtyard and overlook, with view of Altes Rathaus, with St. Michael's Church beyond it (telephoto 156 mm).

Then we headed back down the Ludwigsteig, first taking the footpath.


4:17 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - Ludwigsteig with switchbacks.


4:17 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - Ludwigsteig with more switchbacks.


MT ‎4:13 PM - Passau: Veste Oberhaus - Ludwigsteig with more switchbacks.


4:27 PM - Passau: MT crossing Luitpoldbrücke suspension bridge back to Old Town (mild telephoto 44 mm).


4:27 PM - Passau: MT passing statue of bishop at south end of Luitpoldbrücke.



4:28 PM - Passau: pedestal of statue of bishop at south end of Luitpoldbrücke, with inscription that translates: "Franciscus Aloysius S.R.I. Count of Lamberg, Canon of Metro Salzburg and Cath[edral] Pass[au]" and the year 1718.

Franz Alois von Lamberg (1692-1732), Titular Bishop of Nilopolis, was appointed Auxiliary Bishop of Passau in 1725 and consecrated in 1726.


5:07 PM - Passau:  we were told that Hitler as a boy had lived in the thin green house on the north side of the Danube opposite Dock A14, where the Viking Bragi was docked (telephoto 105 mm).

In 1892-94, Hitler’s family lived in Passau after his father was transferred there when the boy was 3.

The Viking Daily newsletter had told us to be back on board the Viking Bragi by 5:45, since the ship would depart for our next stop at Melk shortly thereafter. We went up to the ship's sun deck to enjoy the view as we left Passau.


5:48 PM - Passau:  view from sun deck of Bragi down Danube past St. Paul's Church at right and Veste Oberhaus on left and perhaps into Austria.



5:51 PM - Passau:  view from sun deck of St. Paul's Church façade and tower (telephoto 119 mm).


Passau: St. Paul’s Church (Von Allie_Caulfield - originally posted to Flickr as 2010-02-25 Passau 035 Paulskirche, CC BY 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=9578765).

The Pfarrkirche St. Paul (St. Paul's Parish Church), or Paulskirche, dates back to 1050, making it the oldest parish church in Passau. After being destroyed by fire in 1512 and the great city fire of 1662, the present building was constructed in 1678. The original, very flat spire of the 17th/18th centuries was replaced by a high, pointed helmet in the second half of the 19th century.  After reconstruction in the 19th century, the single tower stood much higher. However, due to the dangerous condition of the tower, it was demolished in 1950 and rebuilt with about a third of its height, still the second highest tower in Passau after the Cathedral. The church and its tower are of pink and cream. A stairway, also in pink and cream, leads to the entrance portico and delicately carved doorway.



Passau: St. Paul’s Church with Cathedral in background right and St. Michael’s Church farther in background left (Von Gras-Ober, Wikipedia/Wikimedia Commons (cc-by-sa-3.0), CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=33059940).


6:02 PM - Passau:  view from sun deck of Cathedral towers (telephoto 105 mm).


6:05 PM - Passau: view from sun deck of Altes Rathaus tower (mild telephoto 63 mm).


6:05 PM - Passau: view from sun deck of Altes Rathaus tower (telephoto 156 mm).


6:06 PM - Passau: view from sun deck of Altes Rathaus, with Altes Zollhaus at far left, as we passed another cruise ship.


6:06 PM - Passau: view from sun deck of Altes Zollhaus next to Rathaus.


6:07 PM - Passau: view from sun deck of Veste Oberhaus (far left) and Veste Niederhaus (far right) as we were about to pass under the Luitpoldbrücke suspension bridge.


6:07 PM - Passau: view from sun deck of Veste Oberhaus.


6:05 PM - Passau: view from sun deck of Veste Oberhaus (mild telephoto 63 mm).


6:08 PM - Passau: view from sun deck of Veste Niederhaus (left) as we neared the confluence with the Inn and Ilz.


6:08 PM - Passau: view from sun deck of Veste Niederhaus as we neared the confluence.


6:09 PM - Passau: view from sun deck of Veste Niederhaus as we neared the confluence (mild telephoto 56 mm).


6:09 PM - Passau: view from sun deck of Veste Niederhaus (far left) and ahead on the Danube into Austria as we neared the confluence (mild telephoto 56 mm).


6:09 PM - Passau: view from sun deck of Veste Niederhaus as we neared the confluence; the mouth of the Ilz is just to the right of the shorter tower (mild telephoto 56 mm).


6:09 PM - Passau: view from sun deck back to Veste Oberhaus, with Veste Niederhaus at right, as we neared the confluence (mild telephoto 56 mm).



6:09 PM - Passau: view from sun deck of Veste Niederhaus (left) as we neared the confluence; the mouth of the Ilz is just to the right of the short tower, and the houses at right are on the other side of the Ilz (mild telephoto 56 mm).



6:10 PM - Passau: view from sun deck ahead into Austria as we neared the confluence (mild telephoto 56 mm).



6:10 PM - Passau: view from sun deck of point where the Inn flows into the Danube (mild telephoto 56 mm).



6:10 PM - Passau: view from sun deck back to Veste Oberhaus and Veste Niederhaus and point where the Ilz flows into the Danube just to the right of the tower; the church and houses at the right are on the other side of the Ilz.



6:11 PM - Passau: view from sun deck ahead into Austria.


6:10 PM - Passau: view from sun deck back to Veste Oberhaus and Veste Niederhaus and point where the Ilz flows into the Danube just to the right of the tower; the church and houses at the right are on the other side of the Ilz.



6:14 PM - Passau: view from sun deck of point where the Inn flows into the Danube.



MT ‎6:11 PM - Passau: view from sun deck of town in Austria just beyond point where the Inn flows into the Danube.



6:18 PM - Passau: view from sun deck back to Luitpoldbrücke suspension bridge over Danube, Veste Oberhaus, Veste Niederhaus, the point where the Ilz flows into the Danube, and Church and houses on other side of the Ilz.



6:21 PM - Passau: last view from sun deck of Passau and the confluence (backlit near sunset).

At this point, the Viking Bragi crossed into Austria, and we went inside to prepare for dinner.


MT ‎6:17 PM - Viking Bragi: TV screen showing position of our ship to east of the confluence.



6:25 PM - Viking Bragi: picture of harp near the dining room.



6:24 PM - Viking Bragi: plaque next to that picture of harp, which reads:
"BRAGI
"Bragi is the Norse god of poetry, music and eloquence. He has the power to stir hearts and memories.
"Artist: Roy Chr. Lauritsen."

Bragi is the skaldic poet of the Ǣsir. (Skaldic poetry was oral court poetry originating in Norway but chiefly developed by Icelandic poets (skalds) from the 9th to 13th centuries. Norse mythology divided deities into two groups, the Ǣsir and the Vanir, and Bragi was one of the 12 male Ǣsir [plural of Ás] attested in the 13th-century Edda.) The name Bragi literally means “poet” and may be derived from the old Norse word for poetry, bragr. He is most famous for being the first poet and the inspiration behind skaldic works. He is the god of poetry and music. Harps and other traditional bardic instruments are associated with him. He was the son of Odin by the giantess Gunniöd and husband of the goddess Idunn. Since most Norse gods were paired with their opposites or complementary influences, Bragi is the older, wiser partner of Idunn, the rather gullible goddess of eternal Spring. The long-bearded Bragi is a Winter god of leisure and entertainment, when the work of the harvest season was over and folks settled into the long months of cold and snow.

 


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24 AUG 18 Vienna to Budapest

  This post is based primarily on Don's notes, occasionally supplemented with MT's notes from our cruise in 2018. When information f...