This
post is based primarily on Don's notes, occasionally supplemented with MT's
notes from our cruise in 2018. When information from other sources is added—for
further explanation to readers or to satisfy our own curiosity—that is set off
in a text box (as this one).
Most
of the photos that accompany this post are from Don’s camera (with a caption
indicating the time it was taken); those from MT’s iPhone are indicated by “MT”
placed at the beginning of the photo caption. Photos from any other source (such
as the public domain Wikimedia Commons), occasionally used for clarification,
indicate that source in the caption.
The
forecast was for 63-88° F and sunny.
According
to the Viking Daily newsletter, the Viking Skadi was scheduled to make a
brief stop in Karlstadt around 8:30 am, where guests would leave the
ship for the shore excursion in Würzburg.
Thursday, 16 Aug 2018, 8:18 AM – Karlstadt: ruins of Karlsburg castle on right
bank during breakfast (telephoto 93 mm).
Karlstadt (pop. 15,043) is a town that is the seat of the Main-Spessart district in the
Regierungsbezirk (administrative district) of Unterfranken (Lower Franconia) in
the state of Bavaria. It lies about 30 km north of Würzburg. From the late 6th
to the mid-13th century, the settlement of Karlsburg, with its monastery and
harbor, was located on the west bank of the Main. It grew up around the Karlsburg, a castle
perched high over the community. In 1202, the town of Karlstadt itself was
founded, and it was first mentioned in documents of 1225. In 1236, the castle
and the village of Karlsburg were destroyed in the Rieneck Feud. The castle was
further destroyed in the Bürgerkrieg (Peasants’ War) in 1525.
8:56 AM –
Karlstadt: sign for Karlstadt near bus park.
From 9:00 am to 1:00 pm, we were scheduled to go on
the (included) shore excursion “Würzburg Residenz
and Walking Tour.” This would include Würzburg’s Bishops’ Residenz,
one of Germany’s largest and most ornate Baroque palaces, followed by a walking
tour and free time.
Viking map of Würzburg, with the Residenz in
the large green area at the right.
Würzburg is a city (pop. 126,635) in the region of Franken (Franconia) in
northern Bavaria. Located on the Main river, it is the capital of the
Regierungsbezirk (administrative district) of Unterfranken (Lower Franconia). The
city is located on both banks of the river Main, with the main body of the town
on the eastern (right) bank. Although the city of Würzburg is completely
enclosed in the Landkreis (District) of Würzburg, it is not part of that
district; however, it is the seat of the district’s administration. It lies
along and is an inland port of the canalized Main river.
The first church on the site of the present Würzburg Cathedral was built as early as 788 and consecrated that same year by Charlemagne; the current building was constructed from 1040 to 1225 in Romanesque style.
The city passed to the Electorate of Bavaria in 1803, when the bishopric was secularized. Two years later, in the course of the Napoleonic Wars, it became the seat of the Electorate of Würzburg (until 1806), the in 1805 the seat of the Grand Duchy of Würzburg. In 1814, the town became part of the Kingdom of Bavaria, and a new bishopric was created in 1821.
In March 1945, about 90 percent of the city was destroyed in 17 minutes by fire bombing in a British air raid. All of the city’s churches, cathedrals, and other monuments were heavily damaged or destroyed. The city center, which mostly dated from medieval times, was totally destroyed. On a relative scale, Würzburg was destroyed to a larger extent than was Dresden in a firebombing the previous month. Over the next 20 years, the buildings of historical importance were painstakingly and accurately reconstructed.
The first church on the site of the present Würzburg Cathedral was built as early as 788 and consecrated that same year by Charlemagne; the current building was constructed from 1040 to 1225 in Romanesque style.
The city passed to the Electorate of Bavaria in 1803, when the bishopric was secularized. Two years later, in the course of the Napoleonic Wars, it became the seat of the Electorate of Würzburg (until 1806), the in 1805 the seat of the Grand Duchy of Würzburg. In 1814, the town became part of the Kingdom of Bavaria, and a new bishopric was created in 1821.
In March 1945, about 90 percent of the city was destroyed in 17 minutes by fire bombing in a British air raid. All of the city’s churches, cathedrals, and other monuments were heavily damaged or destroyed. The city center, which mostly dated from medieval times, was totally destroyed. On a relative scale, Würzburg was destroyed to a larger extent than was Dresden in a firebombing the previous month. Over the next 20 years, the buildings of historical importance were painstakingly and accurately reconstructed.
9:39 AM – Würzburg: front of Residenz, backlit
in morning sun.
Würzburg: diagram of Residenz with Hofgarten, with
legend in German and English (Von Hajotthu, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=36820794).
The Würzburger Residenz (Würzburg Residence) took 60 years to build. Its foundations were laid in
1720, basic construction was completed in 1744, and the interior was finished
in 1780. The vast compound near the center of the town was commissioned by two
prince-bishops, the brothers Johann Philipp Franz von Schönborn (bishop
1719-24) and Friedrich Karl von Schönborn (bishop 1729-46). It was designed by
the then young and unknown architect Balthasar Neumann (1687-1753), who went on
to become famous for his refined brand of Baroque architecture. The palace
suffered severe damage in British bombing in March 1945 but has been completely
rebuilt. It is one of the most important Baroque palaces in Europe, and today
it is on the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage list.
9:41 AM – Würzburg: fountain and front (west
side) of Residenz, backlit in morning sun.
9:41 AM – Würzburg: fountain and right front of
Residenz, backlit in morning sun.
9:44 AM – Würzburg: fountain (in sun) from near
entrance of Residenz; visible is background (left) is the Festung Marienberg
and (center) the towers of the Cathedral.
No photos were allowed during our tour inside the
Residenz; so we have to rely on Wikimedia Commons public domain photos here.
The tour began with the Treppenhaus (staircase).
Würzburg: Residenz – Baroque Treppenhaus
(staircase) (By Bundesarchiv, B 145 Bild-F079088-0003 / CC-BY-SA 3.0, CC BY-SA
3.0 de, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=5472401).
The world-famous Treppenhaus (staircase), designed by Balthasar Neumann, is roofed by an unsupported
vault that was decorated in 1752-53 by the Venetian artist Giovanni Battista
Tiepolo (1696-1770) with a ceiling fresco representing the four continents
recognized at that time. The painting, measuring 18 x 20 meters, is one of the
largest frescos ever created and definitely the largest contiguous fresco in
the world. [Our tour guide said that, despite its size and lack of support, the
fresco survived the bombing of 1954.]
Würzburg: Residenz – ceiling fresco at top of
stairs in Treppenhaus (staircase), showing three of the four continents (By
Edelseider - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=59441907 [the author begs forgiveness for not having paid attention to the ban on
photography]).
Würzburg: Residenz – ceiling fresco at other
end of Treppenhaus (staircase) representing America (By Zairon - Own work, CC
BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=18514900).
Then we went through the Gartensaal (Garden Chamber).
Würzburg: Residenz – Gartensaal (By
Bundesarchiv, B 145 Bild-F079088-0022 / CC-BY-SA 3.0, CC BY-SA 3.0 de, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=5472403).
The Gartensaal (Garden Chamber) is a vat, low hall with Rococo stucco works dating from
1749. There is also a painting from 1750 depicting the Feast of the Gods and
Diana Resting. The Gartensaal is located on the ground floor directly below the
Kaisersaal.
Würzburg: Residenz – main ceiling fresco in
Gartensaal (By fotogoocom, CC BY 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=57084044).
Würzburg: Residenz – one of the smaller
ceiling frescos in Gartensaal (By Barbara Ann Spengler from Arizona &
Florida, USA - West Germany - Würzburg - The Residenz - June 1978, CC BY 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=62106453).
Then we continued up the staircase to the Kaisersaal.
The Kaisersaal (Imperial Hall) is a large ballroom begun in 1737 and magnificently
decorated by 1753 by Antonio Bossi and Giovanni Battista Tiepolo, in which the
idea of the Empire and the Emperor are impressively displayed. The Kaisersaal
is the centerpiece of the palace, testifying to the close relationship between
Würzburg and the Holy Roman Empire. However, the Prince-Bishop Johann Philipp
von Greiffenclau-Volraths (bishop 1699-1719) chose the planned frescos not to
honor the current Emperor (Franz Stephan I), but rather Emperor Friedrich
Barbarossa, who elevated the bishops of Würzburg to the rank of Duke. Next to
the magnificent frescoes of Tiepolo, the gilded stucco work of Bossi is
undoubtedly the most impressive feature of this room.
Würzburg: Residenz – other (south) end of
Kaisersaal with fresco of the Marriage of Emperor Friedrich I Barbarossa to
Beatriz von Burgund (By Andreas Faessler - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=39454413).
Würzburg: Residenz – Kaisersaal; fresco,
dated 1751, of the Marriage of Friedrich I Barbarossa and Beatrice (Beatrix) von
Burgund, by Tiepolo (By Giovanni Battista Tiepolo - Web Gallery of Art:
Image Info about artwork, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=521592).
The fresco by Giovanni Battista Tiepolo has the
official title “Die Trauung Kaiser
Barbarossas und der Beatrix von Burgund durch den Würzburger Fürstbischof 1156” (The Marriage of Friedrich Barbarossa and Beatrice von Burgund by the
Prince-Bishop of Würzburg 1156). It shows the Emperor Friedrich I Barbarossa
and Beatrix von Burgund kneeling before Gebhard von Henneberg, Bishop of Würzburg
(he was bishop 1121-1127 and again 1150-59). However the bishop pictured is not
Gebhard, but rather Karl Philipp von Greiffenclau-Volraths (bishop 1749-54),
who is also pictured in Tiepolo’s fresco in the Treppenhaus, and the bishop’s miter,
turned toward the observer, features a bird (the heraldic emblem of the
Greiffenclaus). The fact that the emperor is kneeling before the bishop
emphasizes the spiritual power of a (prince-)bishop, although the Bishop of Würzburg
was not yet a prince in 1156. The age difference of the Emperor (34) and his
bride (only 12) is not recognizable in this picture. In the whole scene, the
people wear 16th-century clothing. On the right side of the picture, the royal
household and dignitaries of the kingdom are gathered, while the father of the
bride, Count Rainald von Burgund, kneels on the steps on the left side of the
altar, accompanied by two pages. The court jester, seen from behind, occupies a
prominent position in the foreground, at the foot of the stairs to the altar,
an example of Tiepolo’s predilection for the introduction of witty and
frivolous ideas, in contrast to the main subject. The steps to the altar lead
into the picture and, together with the colossal background architecture,
create great spatial depth. The musicians on the balcony in the background are
a favorite motif of Tiepolo. The wedding took place in 1156.
Würzburg: Residenz – north end of Kaisersaal
with fresco, dated 1752, is of the Investiture of Herold, Bishop of Würzburg,
as Duke of Franconia, by Giovanni Battista Tiepolo (By I, Sailko, CC BY-SA 3.0,
https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=17365446).
Würzburg: Residenz – Kaisersaal; fresco,
dated 1752, is of the Investiture of Herold, Bishop of Würzburg, as Duke of
Franconia in 1168, by Giovanni Battista Tiepolo (By Giovanni Battista Tiepolo -
Web Gallery of Art: Image Info about artwork, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=15465344).
This fresco by Giovanni Battista Tiepolo has the
official title “Die Belehnung des
Würzburger Bischofs Herold mit dem Herzogtum Franken durch Kaiser Friedrich
Barbarossa auf dem Reichstag zu Würzburg 1168” (The
Investiture of the Würzburg Bishop Herold as Duke of Franconia at the Imperial
Diet of Würzburg 1168). It shows Bishop Herold of Würzburg kneeling before
Emperor Friedrich Barbarossa, on his throne, to receiving the title of Duke of
Franconia in 1168. The figures of the Emperor and Bishop are repeated from the
other fresco, only their positions have changed; now it is the Emperor who has
the Bishop kneeling in front of him. Again, the bishop is pictured with the
face of Karl Philipp von Greiffenclau-Volraths (bishop 1749-54). At the lower
left is the inscription “GIO. ETTA. TIEPOLO 1752.”
After reaching the end of the guided tour, we exited
around the right side of the building to visit the Hofgarten (Court Garden).
10:49 AM – Würzburg: Hofgarten (Court Garden) of
Residenz.
While MT stayed in the Hofgarten, Don went back to
see the Hofkirche (Court Church) inside the right wing (southwest corner) of the Residenz
complex. He took a few photos in the church before another member of our tour
group told him that no photos were allowed there either—Don had not seen the
sign, but he had not used a flash.
The Hofkirche (Court Church) with the official name Hofkirche Allerheiligste
Dreifaltigkeit (Court Church of the Most Holy Trinity) was built from 1732 to
1743. After Prince-Bishop Johann Philipp Franz von Schönborn had been convinced
by Balthasar Neumann to set up the church in the southwest corner of the
Residenz, Neumann had the problem of preserving the uniform external appearance
of the façade with its windows and stories. The windowless left side was
provided with mirrors, in which the reflections appear to be windows. In the
interior, Neumann divided the space with columns that took into account the
lengths and heights of the window-filled outer wall. In the entrance area as
well as in the choir (apse), these pillars support galleries and form
colonnades. Although the floorplan with its three consecutive oval rotundas can
be seen in domes, it is barely noticeable in the design of the room. The color
scheme of the room is in dark pink and gold, with the walls decorated with
stucco marble columns.
10:56 AM – Würzburg: Hofkirche – view from rear
of nave to main altar in apse.
Würzburg: Hofkirche – view from rear of nave to
main altar in apse, showing main altar with another altar in the gallery above
it, the glassed-in oratorium to the left of the altar gallery, statues of St.
Kilian and St. Burkard flanking the main altar, pulpit at right, and statues
flanking each of the side altars (CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=619508).
Würzburg:
Hofkirche – main altar with a putto and Mary Magdalene below Christ on the
cross, flanked by St. Kilian and St. Burkard, with altar gallery above it (Von
Aarp65 - Eigenes Werk, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=41296750).
Würzburg: Hofkirche – side altar with painting of
Assumption of Mary, flanked by statues of Emperor Heinrich II and Empress
Kunigunde (Von Oktobersonne - Eigenes Werk, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=48629371).
Würzburg: Hofkirche – side altar with painting of
Fall of the Angel Lucifer, flanked by statues of Archangels Gabriel and Rafael
(Von Oktobersonne - Eigenes Werk, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=48629374).
Würzburg: Hofkirche – pulpit on right side of
church (Von Aarp65 - Eigenes Werk, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=41296760).
10:56 AM – Würzburg: Hofkirche – sign for
“Architektur und Deckenmalerei der Hofkirche” (Architecture and Ceiling
Painting of the Hofkirche) with text in German.
10:56 AM – Würzburg: Hofkirche – English version
of same sign for “Architecture and ceiling paintings of the Court Chapel” with
text in English; the English text [annotated with a more direct translation
from the German version] reads:
“The shell of the Würzburg Court Chapel was built [erected in raw form] in 1732/33 under Prince-Bishop Friedrich Carl von Schönborn (r. [reg. = reigned] 1725-1746), whose large coat of arms decorates the west gallery. The architect, who was also responsible for the whole of the Residence, was Balthasar Neumann. After the interior had largely been completed, the chapel was consecrated [dedicated] to the Holy Trinity on 15 September 1743.
“The shell of the Würzburg Court Chapel was built [erected in raw form] in 1732/33 under Prince-Bishop Friedrich Carl von Schönborn (r. [reg. = reigned] 1725-1746), whose large coat of arms decorates the west gallery. The architect, who was also responsible for the whole of the Residence, was Balthasar Neumann. After the interior had largely been completed, the chapel was consecrated [dedicated] to the Holy Trinity on 15 September 1743.
10:56 AM (Cropped) –
Würzburg: Hofkirche – diagram on
German sign.
"Ground plan part showing the position of the
galleries and three oval domes
[Floorplan with marking of the galleries and of the
three oval domes]
“22 stucco marble pillars with gilded composite
capitals support the broad horizontal [band of the] entablature which divides
the room into an upper and lower zone. The music gallery in the west and the
altar gallery in the east curve away from the walls together with the
entablature to project into the room.
“The design with the two distinct floors originates
from [has its origin in] the function of the Court Chapel. Separated from the
court, the Prince-Bishop could either participate in the mass from the glassed-in
oratorium or from the west gallery, or celebrate mass himself at the gallery
altar – and return directly to his apartment on the main floor of the Residence
without having to go upstairs [without stairs conveniently arrive there from
his living space in the main floor].
“The ceiling paintings were created in 1735/36 by
Johann Rudolph Byss and his pupils. In the choir dome is a depiction of the
martyrdom of the Franciscan apostles Kilian, Colman [Kolonat] and Totnan, in
the central dome is the coronation of Mary and over the west gallery the fall
of the angels. The paintings were badly damaged by the fire in the roof truss
in 1945 and the subsequent penetration of moisture, and whole sections were overpainted
[had to be repainted] in 1962 by Karl Körner. The restoration from 2010 to 2012
secured the substance and also greatly improved the appearance of the stucco
ornamentation, gilding, marbling and painting.”
10:57 AM – Würzburg: Hofkirche – central dome
with coronation of Mary.
Then Don rejoined MT in the Hofgarten.
The layout of the Hofgarten (Court Garden) was—like the Residenz itself—limited by the existing
Baroque city wall. This east garden is laid out on the exit from the Gartensaal
(Garden Chamber) in the middle of the Residenz.
11:03 AM – Würzburg: Hofgarten – view of south
side of Residenz, with statue group in garden.
At the bases of four sculpted yew trees are statues of the four seasons.
MT 10:51 AM – Würzburg: sculpted yew trees with
statue at bases in Hofgarten near south side of Residenz.
11:03 AM – Würzburg: statue in Hofgarten near
south side of Residenz.
11:03 AM – Würzburg: another statue (Summer) in
Hofgarten near south side of Residenz.
11:05 AM – Würzburg: another statue, with grapes,
in Hofgarten near south side of Residenz.
MT 11:00 AM – Würzburg: MT and Don with statue with
grapes, in Hofgarten near south side of Residenz.
Würzburg: another statue in Hofgarten near south
side of Residenz (Von Rufus46 - Eigenes Werk, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=51482414).
MT 10:53 AM – Würzburg: another statue under yew
tree near south side of Residenz.
MT 10:53 AM (Cropped) –
Würzburg: another statue under
yew tree near south side of Residenz.
MT 11:06 AM – Würzburg: flowerbed in Hofgarten on south
side of Residenz.
11:05 AM – Würzburg: Hofgarten – fountain,
sculpted trees and south side of Residenz.
11:06 AM – Würzburg: Hofgarten – fountain,
sculpted trees and south side of Residenz (wider view).
11:06 AM – Würzburg: Hofgarten – sculpture, The
Rape of Persephone, near south side of Residenz.
11:10 AM – Würzburg: Hofgarten – another
sculpture, The Rape of Europe, near south side of Residenz.
11:13 AM – Würzburg: Hofgarten – view of east
side of Residenz, with exterior of Kaisersaal and Gartensaal below it in center.
The Kaisersaal (Imperial Hall) is the centerpiece of the palace. It testifies to the
close relationship between Würzburg and the Holy Roman Empire.
11:14 AM – Würzburg: exterior of Kaisersaal and
Gartensaal below it on ground floor, in center of east side of Residenz, with
coat of arms on pediment at top (mild telephoto 56 mm).
Then we went back around to the west side of the
Residenz to meet our guide at the Frankoniabrunnen, a traditional meeting place for tour groups.
11:17 AM – Würzburg: Residenz – statues on Frankoniabrunnen
fountain on Residenzplatz by main entrance on west side; the large statue is of
Franconia personified, and the smaller statues are of Walther von der
Vogelweide (left) and Tilman Riemenschneider (right) (mild telephoto 63 mm).
The Frankoniabrunnen (Franconia Fountain) was erected in Neo-Baroque style by the City of Würzburg in 1894, in honor of the
Prince-Regent Luitpold of Bavaria (1821-1912), who was born in the Residenz and
was the de facto ruler of Bavaria from 1886 to 1912 due to the incapacity of
his nephews who inherited the throne. (It was originally called the
Luitpoldbrunnen or Prinz-Regent-Luitpold-Brunnen.) The large bronze statue, with
a ducal crown and holding the flag of Würzburg in one hand and a laurel wreath
in the other, is the symbolic image of the Franconia region. Surrounding the
base of that statue are figures of three men who made the region famous: the
Minnesänger (medieval poet) Walther von der Vogelweide (ca. 1170-1230), the painter
Mathis Nithart-Gothart (called Matthias Grünewald, ca. 1475/80-1528/31/32), and
the sculptor/woodcarver Tilman Riemenschneider (ca. 1460-1531). The allegorical
figure of Franconia looks toward the Cathedral. The fountain stands directly in
front of the Ehrenhof.
11:17 AM – Würzburg: view across Residenzplatz
from near entrance of Residenz; at left is the monumental obelisk at one end of
the colonnade at the far end of the square; visible is background (center) is
the Festung Marienberg and (left) the towers of the Cathedral and dome of the
Neumünster-Kirche.
The Residenzplatz (Residence Square) is the largest paved open space in Würzburg’s Altstadt
(Old Town). Until the 14th century, this land was outside the Bischofshut
(literally bishop’s miter, this was the name of the city wall in the Middle
Ages) and was only included, together with the suburb Rennweg, in the walled
area in 1330. In 1701, in order to provide the prince-bishops a seat in the
city rather than in the Marienberg, construction of the Rennweger Schlösschen
(Rennweg Little Castle) was begun in the area of today’s Residenzplatz. It was
designed much smaller than the later Residenz but due to settling and
development of cracks in the building, was never occupied but demolished by the
time the construction of the Residenz began in 1719. Until 1821, the Ehrenhof
of the Residenz was fenced off with a wrought-iron grille. Since 1894, the
square has been adorned with the Frankoniabrunnen. Today, most of the square is
a parking lot.
11:18 AM – Würzburg: view back toward main entrance
of Residenz (still backlit), with Frankoniabrunnen in foreground.
11:19 AM – Würzburg: main entrance of Residenz
(mild telephoto 44 mm).
Würzburg: Residenz – west façade
above main entrance, with coat of arms on pediment at top (By Anidaat - Own
work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=48864360).
On
the pediment atop the façade over the main entrance is the coat of arms of
Friedrich Karl von Schönborn, who along with his brother oversaw the beginning
of the construction of the Residenz.
11:27 AM – Würzburg: wider view back across Residenzplatz
toward main entrance of Residenz (still backlit), with Frankoniabrunnen in center and Hofkirche at right, as Viking tour group(s) depart.
11:28 AM – Würzburg: view back across
Residenzplatz toward main entrance of Residenz (still backlit), with
Frankoniabrunnen in center and Hofkirche at right.
11:28 AM – Würzburg: view back across
Residenzplatz toward main entrance of Residenz, with Viking tour group(s).
Then our tour group went toward the Cathedral.
11:27 AM – Würzburg: view from west end of
Residenzplatz down pedestrianized Hofstraße (Court Street) into the Altstadt
toward Cathedral (two red brick towers) and Neumünster-Kirche (white with dome
and tower) (telephoto 72 mm).
11:32 AM – Würzburg: approaching east (apse) end
of Cathedral at end of Hofstraße.
MT 11:29 AM – Würzburg: approaching closer to east
(apse) end of Cathedral at end of Hofstraße.
Before taking a closer look at the Cathedral, we
went around its north side into Kardinal-Döpfner-Platz (Cardinal Döpfner
Square).
11:35 AM – Würzburg: view to the right (north)
off Hofstraße onto Kardinal-Döpfner-Platz (on white part of street sign at far
right), which turns off to the right (north) across from the east (apse) end of
the Cathedral and Neumünster-Kirche.
Würzburg: Kardinal-Döpfner-Platz 1 (https://commons.wikimedia.org).
An
Internet search revealed that the historic building in the left foreground of the preceding photo is located
at Kardinal-Döpfner-Platz 1, at the corner where Hofstraße, after coming
northwestward from the Residenz, is about to reach the Neumünster-Kirche. The
building has a drive-through portal that leads to its interior.
Würzburg: drive-through portal of
Kardinal-Döpfner-Platz 1 (Author Roland H. Bueb at https://commons.wikimedia.org).
The
two buildings with stepped gables at the far end of this street are also at numbers 4 and 5 on
Kardinal-Döpfner-Platz, which is the name of the square and also of the street
that leads to it from Hofstraße just across the from the east end of the
Cathedral.
On the north side of Kardinal-Döpfner-Platz, we went past the Neumünster-Kirche.
MT 11:32 AM – Würzburg: eastern choir (apse) end of Neumünster-Kirche,
at point where Hofstraße curves to right (north) and becomes Martinstraße.
The
Neumünster-Kirche (New Cathedral Church), also known as Neumünster St.
Johannes Evangelist und St. Johannes der Täufer (New Cathedral St. John the
Evangelist and St. John the Baptist) and previously as Kollegiatstift Neumünster
(Collegiate Church* of Neumünster), is only a few meters north of the Cathedral.
It was built at the burial site of St. Kilian and his fellow Irish martyrs, St.
Kolonat and St. Totnan. In the 8th century, Bishop Megingaud of Würzburg (in office 754-69) probably erected
a memorial building on this site to commemorate those martyrs. To guard the
relics of the martyrs, on this spot was then erected what was probably the
first cathedral in Würzburg, the so-called “Salvator-Dom” (Savior Cathedral),
dedicated to “Christus-Salvator” in 788 in the presence of Charlemagne. Little is
known of the architecture of this church, but it was probably built mostly of
wood, since reports say it was burned due to a lightning strike in 855 and the
walls collapsed soon after. Then a three-nave church was built, but it also
burned down in 918.
The actual history of the Neumünster begins
with the construction of the Romanesque church at its present location. Around 1060, the Neumünster was
founded and dedicated to St. John the Evangelist. The original church had a nave and two choirs in Romanesque
style. The famous medieval poet Walther von der Vogelweide, who may have been
born in Würzburg, is buried in a small
garden on the north side of the church. The Romanesque west choir,
already showing signs of age in the early 18th century, was demolished in 1711,
and the red sandstone west façade was built in 1712-16 in Baroque style. Part
of the west choir was also replaced by the church’s imposing Baroque dome, completed
in 1714, over the martyrs’ tomb. The east choir (apse) remained in Romanesque
style, as it does today. In 1803, in the wake of the secularization of church
properties in Bavaria, the redesigned abbey church came under state ownership
and served temporarily as an ammunition depot. In 1883, state authorities
approved an independent church foundation for the Neumünster Church, although a
Neumünster parish separate from the Cathedral parish was not founded until
1907. Since 1908, it has been a Catholic parish church, which has the patron
saints St. John the Evangelist and St. John the Baptist. The church suffered
severe damage in the bombing of Würzburg
in 1945. After reconstruction, it took over the function of the seat of the Würzburg diocese from 1950 to the reconstruction of
the Cathedral in 1967 and again in 2011-12 during further renovation work on
the Cathedral.
11:37 AM – Würzburg: Neumünster – view from
Kiliansplatz (Kilian’s Square) of south façade with rose window and paintings
of the three Irish martyrs at the top.
11:37 AM – Würzburg: Neumünster – west façade,
facing Domstraße, with dome just behind it; MT in foreground.
11:37 AM – Würzburg: Neumünster – west façade;
Latin inscription across its frieze reads: ANNO MDCCXVI JOANNES PHILIPPUS
EPISCOPUS HERBIPOLENSIS F.O.D.” (Year 1716 Johann Philipp Bishop of Wurzburg
F.O.D.).
Würzburg: west façade of Neumünster-Kirche, and part of dome, both in Baroque style (By Dguendel - Own work, CC BY 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=66146129).
The
Baroque west façade was built in 1711-16. Herbipolis was the Latin
medieval name for Würzburg, and F.O.D.
probably stands for “Franciae Oriental Dux” (Duke of East Franconia), as is
found in inscriptions under some of his portraits.
Below that frieze is the entrance portal, flanked by statues of St. John the Evangelist (left) and St. John the Baptist (right). In the curved tympanum above that frieze is a large relief of the Glorification of Mary, perhaps the Bishop’s attempt to make up for the demolition of the old west choir dedicated to the Virgin. However, the triangular gable at the top of the façade shows an elaborately designed coat of arms of the Bishop.
Above that relief is a balustrade setting off the top floor of the façade, which features a statue of Christ, the Savior of the World in a niche at its center. Standing on the wings of the second floor, out past the end of the balustrade, are statues of Totnan and Kolonat. Closer to the Christ figure and a little higher atop the balustrade, are statues of Kilian and Burkhard, due to their rank as bishops.
The harder to read inscription on another frieze just below the façade’s gable reads: SS. MM. CHILIANO AT SOCIIS PATRIAE PATRONIS” (To the holy martyrs Kilian and his companions, the patrons of the father city).
Below that frieze is the entrance portal, flanked by statues of St. John the Evangelist (left) and St. John the Baptist (right). In the curved tympanum above that frieze is a large relief of the Glorification of Mary, perhaps the Bishop’s attempt to make up for the demolition of the old west choir dedicated to the Virgin. However, the triangular gable at the top of the façade shows an elaborately designed coat of arms of the Bishop.
Above that relief is a balustrade setting off the top floor of the façade, which features a statue of Christ, the Savior of the World in a niche at its center. Standing on the wings of the second floor, out past the end of the balustrade, are statues of Totnan and Kolonat. Closer to the Christ figure and a little higher atop the balustrade, are statues of Kilian and Burkhard, due to their rank as bishops.
The harder to read inscription on another frieze just below the façade’s gable reads: SS. MM. CHILIANO AT SOCIIS PATRIAE PATRONIS” (To the holy martyrs Kilian and his companions, the patrons of the father city).
MT 11:41 AM – Würzburg: Neumünster – west façade;
Latin inscription across its frieze reads: ANNO MDCCXVI JOANNES PHILIPPUS
EPISCOPUS HERBIPOLENSIS F.O.D.” (Year 1716 Johann Philipp Bishop of Wurzburg
F.O.D.).
11:36 AM – Würzburg: our tour group approaching
the north side of the Cathedral on Kiliansplatz (between the Neumünster and the
Cathedral), with two towers on west end facing Domstraße; MT at lower right,
following our guide.
The Würzburger Dom (Würzburg Cathedral), also known as Dom St. Kilian or St.-Kiliansdom
(St. Kilian Cathedral) is the seat of the Bishop of Würzburg and has served as
the burial place for the prince-bishops of Würzburg for hundreds of years. This
is the third cathedral built here, after the first two (built around 787 and
855) were destroyed or partially destroyed by fire. The first cathedral was
dedicated to the Salvator (Savior). Then, from 855 to around 1000, the second
cathedral was dedicated to St. Kilian; then, from about 1000 to 1967 to St.
Andreus (St. Andrew). Since 1967, it has been dedicated to the martyrs Kilian,
Kolonat, and Totnan.
The church is a cross-shaped, three-nave basilica with a transept and a twin-tower façade.
The church is a cross-shaped, three-nave basilica with a transept and a twin-tower façade.
11:41 AM – Würzburg: Cathedral – west façade.
11:40 AM – Würzburg: view from front of Cathedral
to west down Domstraße (Cathedral Street) to tower of Rathaus (City Hall).
From
the Cathedral, the tour group headed west and north, passing through the Marktplatz
(Market Square) along the way.
The
Marktplatz (Market Square) of Würzburg
is divided into the Oberer Markt (Upper Market), on the east, with the
Falkenhaus, and the Unterer Markt (Lower Market), on the southwest, with obelisk
fountain and the maypole. The Marienkapelle (St. Mary Chapel) is on the north
side of the Lower Market. Since the 9th century, Würzburg had periodically held
a trade market. In 1349, the Jewish Quarter on what is now the site of the
Marktplatz and the Marienkapelle, was partly destroyed, when the Jews wee
blamed for the plague.
MT 11:45 AM – Würzburg: Marktplatz with flower and
fruit stands.
MT 11:46 AM – Würzburg: Marktplatz - vegetable stand
(Don, in red shirt, photobombing in store window reflection).
In
the Marktplatz, we passed by a T.K.Maxx store.
11:47 AM – Würzburg: our tour group passing “T.K.Maxx”
store.
The
T.K.Maxx department store, part of the TJX international retail chain
that includes T.J.Maxx and Marshalls, is located at Marktplatz 38. (At the time
we saw this sign, we thought a local store was just trying to be “one-up” from
the U.S. chain T.J.Maxx, but that was not the case.)
11:47 AM – Würzburg: view across Marktplatz to
apse end of Marienkapelle (left), Falkenhaus (center), and building with
Caféhaus Michel (right).
Würzburg: Caféhaus Michel (https://wuerzburgwiki.de/w/index.php?curid=19835).
Caféhaus Michel is a café, Konditorei (confectionary) and Bäckerei (bakery) located on
the lower two floors of Marktplatz 11. Originally founded as Café Wolpert in
1870, it was sold in 1900 and reopened in 1911 by the Michel family.
The sign on the upper stories is for Würzburger Hofbräu, presumably
served there. However, the brewery is now located at Höchberger Straße in Würzburg
and is the only beer brewery in Würzburg. It was founded in 1643 by
Prince-Bishop Johann Philipp von Schönborn. At that time, during the Thirty
Years’ War, there were many Swedish soldiers in Würzburg, who emptied most of
the wine stores of the city. Therefore, in order to pacify the Swedes, the
Prince-Bishop founded the brewery. At that time, the beer was brewed mainly for
the court and the military, since at that time only a minority of the local
population drank beer, which was more expensive than wine.
1:47 AM – Würzburg: view across Marktplatz to
apse end of Marienkapelle (center) and Falkenhaus (right).
11:47 AM – Würzburg: Falkenhaus with apse of Marienkapelle at far left.
The
Falkenhaus (Falcon House), or Haus zum Falken (House of the
Falcon), is located at Marktplatz 9. It is a three-story building with a rich
stucco façade and three gables across its front.
The original building bore the name “Hof zur
Burgpfarre” (Court of the Castle Parish Priest) and served as the home of the
Dompfarrer (cathedral parish priest) starting in 1338. In 1735, it was sold to
a private individual, who turned it into the Gasthaus zum Falken (Inn of the
Falcon). The Rococo façade with three gables was added in 1751. Up into the
19th century, it housed Würzburg’s only concert and dance hall. It was sold to
the City in 1939 and was totally burned out by Allied bombing in 1945. It was rebuilt in
1950-53 according to old photographs. Since 1952, it has been occupied by the Würzburg City Library and the Tourist
Information Office. It is flanked on one side by the Marienkapelle and on the
other by Caféhaus Michel.
MT 11:44 AM – Würzburg: view across Marktplatz to
apse end of Marienkapelle (left) and Falkenhaus (right).
11:48 AM – Würzburg: view across Marktplatz to
apse end of Marienkapelle (mild telephoto 56 mm).
The
Marienkapelle (St. Mary’s Chapel) is located on the north side of the
Marktplatz, at Marktplatz 7. In 1349, a synagogue located on this site was burned
down in the course of a pogrom that destroyed the previously flourishing Jewish
community of Würzburg, after a rumor
that the Jews were responsible for the onset of the plague in the city.
Soon after the pogrom, construction of a small wooden chapel dedicated to the
Virgin Mary (Marienkapelle) began on the site of the destroyed synagogue.
Construction of the current church started in 1377 in the Gothic style. It is
not certain when the chapel was finished, but the choir (apse) was reportedly
consecrated in 1392. It must have been largely completed by 1441, when
construction started on the tower (completed in 1479).
At some point in the mid-15th century, the chapel came under the control of the town council. In 1452, the council decided that a mass would be held there for each council member who died and was buried there. At least from the mid-16th century, the council used the Marienkapelle as its chapel for formal occasions, foregoing use of the chapel in the Rathaus (City Hall). Burial at this place remained an honor the council bestowed on other favored people, such as the architect Balthasar Neumann, who was buried there in 1753, in an unmarked grave.
As early as 1527, the church had been in poor condition. Later construction included work on the tower in 1556-58. In the early 18th century, the roofs were renovated, and the tower was topped by a Madonna (Mary, the Immaculate Conception) in 1713, following the destruction of the original tower roof by lightning in 1711. The 3.45-m-tall Madonna was made of gilded copper. A Baroque tower top was added in 1719. Major restoration work in 1843-53 included changes to the west façade and the rose window in its gable.
At some point in the mid-15th century, the chapel came under the control of the town council. In 1452, the council decided that a mass would be held there for each council member who died and was buried there. At least from the mid-16th century, the council used the Marienkapelle as its chapel for formal occasions, foregoing use of the chapel in the Rathaus (City Hall). Burial at this place remained an honor the council bestowed on other favored people, such as the architect Balthasar Neumann, who was buried there in 1753, in an unmarked grave.
As early as 1527, the church had been in poor condition. Later construction included work on the tower in 1556-58. In the early 18th century, the roofs were renovated, and the tower was topped by a Madonna (Mary, the Immaculate Conception) in 1713, following the destruction of the original tower roof by lightning in 1711. The 3.45-m-tall Madonna was made of gilded copper. A Baroque tower top was added in 1719. Major restoration work in 1843-53 included changes to the west façade and the rose window in its gable.
Würzburg: Marienkapelle around
1845, with Baroque tower top (Von Oktobersonne - Eigenes Werk, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=49887654).
In
1856-57, the Gothic Revival spire was added, and the gold cover of the Madonna
was also restored. Although this statue survived the bombing of March 1945, it
was subsequently damaged by repeated strafing from Allied aircraft during later
fighting in the city. After WWII, it was painstakingly reconstructed. The top
of the Madonna towers 72 m above the Marktplatz. Together with the globe at her
feet, the statue is 5.75 m high; it is actually a double Madonna that revolves
like a weathervane with the help of a rotatable iron construction,
Würzburg: gilded Madonna (the
Immaculate Conception) on tower of Marienkapelle (By Holger Uwe Schmitt - Own
work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=65888074).
The
chapel, with three naves, is a mixture between a basilica and a hall church
that was popular in the late-Gothic period. Despite its large size, it is a
“chapel” by status, since it does not have a parish. Today, it is administered
by the parishes of the Würzburg
Cathedral and the Kollegiatstift Neumünster. (Strangely enough, it could
be confused with the Marienkirche (St. Mary’s Church), which is a chapel in the
Marienberg fortress.) The chapel was heavily damaged by the bombing in 1945,
and its interior was destroyed by flames. It was rebuilt in 1948-61 and re-consecrated
in 1962.
MT 11:49 AM – Würzburg: Marienkapelle -tower, west
façade, and south side, with maypole (mild telephoto 44 mm).
11:53 AM – Würzburg: Marienkapelle -tower, west
façade, and south side, view across Marktplatz with maypole.
11:52 AM – Würzburg: Marienkapelle with maypole.
The
Maibaum (maypole) is a tall wooden pole erected as part of various
European folk festivals, around which a maypole dance often takes place. In
Germany and Austria, the Maibaum is a tradition going back at least to the 16th
century (some say the 13th or even the 10th). Some scholars believe it may have
originally had some importance (a remnant of the Germanic reverence for sacred
trees, or perhaps as a symbol that a happy season of warmth and comfort had
returned) in the Germanic paganism of the Iron Age and early Medieval cultures
and that the tradition survived Christianization, albeit losing any original
pagan meaning. Some believe its roots were in the pagan celebration of
Walpurgisnacht (April 30), tossing off the darkness and cold of Winter. However,
more recent scholarship has found that the custom of the maypole arose in the
context of medieval Christian Europe. It has been a recorded practice in many
parts of Europe throughout the Medieval and Early Modern periods. Similar to
the maypole of Anglo traditions, it is erected on May 1st or the day before.
Residents of Bavaria, East Frisia in Lower Saxony, Baden-Württemberg, and
elsewhere celebrate this originally pagan ritual each year within their local
communities’ today it is mostly a secular celebration. In Bavaria, the pole (or
tree) is usually painted with blue and while spirals and is often decorated
scenes showing local crafts, trades, and activities. A wreath is added to the
top, to which long ribbons may be tied. It is a typical Franconian maypole.
11:50 AM – Würzburg: maypole on Marktplatz.
MT 11:46 AM – Würzburg: maypole on Marktplatz.
11:51 AM – Würzburg: detail of maypole on
Marktplatz; the crossbar shows a religious procession with a priest and altar boys,
a blue and white banner (colors of Bavaria) leading the way, and a red and
white banner (colors of Franconia) near the end (telephoto 119 mm).
MT 11:46 AM (Cropped) –
Würzburg: more figures on lower
part of maypole on Marktplatz; below the crossbar with dancing couples is a
coat of arms over a white ribbon with “Rudi May”; figures on the bottom crossbar include the “Weinkönigin”
(Wine Queen), men transporting a barrel of wine, and “Schoppenfetzer.”
An
Internet search revealed the following information about this maypole and Rudi
May: The Maibaum (maypole) of the City of Würzburg is traditionally erected from May to October on the Unterer
Markt (Lower Market) near the Marienkapelle in the Altstadt (Old Town); it is
stored during the Winter months. It is decorated with several guild trademarks,
the coats of arms of Würzburg’s sister cities, and national flags. Colorful
metal panels depict happy everyday scenes of Würzburg, and a green wreath
floats above the scenes: Christians in a procession, merry dance partners, and
staggering Schoppenfetzer. In Würzburg’s wine taverns and restaurants, the
normally ordered quantity of drink is called Schoppen (0.25 liter); a person
who regularly consumes many of those is called a “Schoppenfetzer.” Since the
pole is wooden, it must be renewed every five years for safety reasons. Since
2003, the pole has been donated by Rudi May (born 1941 in Würzburg) is a construction investor and
property developer, from a forest he owns. However, May is also known for erecting
a department store on the land of the former Schwanenhotel (Swan Hotel) at the
expense of the oldest city gate. The hotel had been built in 1937 but destroyed
by Allied bombing in 1945. Until the end of the 1970s, the plot remained
vacant, except for the former entry portal of the hotel, which had been a
medieval city gate. In 1977-78, the area of the former hotel was built up again
as a large department store, and the former gate was incorporated into the new
structure.
From
the Marktplatz, our tour group headed toward the Rathaus.
11:57 AM – Würzburg: Ratskeller, with tower of
Rathaus in background; MT and our guide ("Viking Bragi 13A" tour group, although we were now in the Viking Skadi) at bottom left.
The
Würzburger Ratskeller (Würzburg
Town Hall Cellar) is located under the Rathaus (City Hall) at Langgasse
1, on the east side of the Rathaus. The Würzburger
Ratskeller is where Ratsherren (city councilmen) once met in the Ratstube
(councilmen’s room), more aptly known as Ratstrinkstube (councilmen’s drinking
room), where the council met, the councilmen’s families held their dance, or,
in the Baroque period, the Prince-Bishop was a guest.
In
1577, a “Bierschenk- und Stadtschreiberhaus” (beer pub and town clerk’s house)
was built, in which the City had the only beer-serving license until 1806. The “Neuer
Tor” (New Door), the large portal on the south side of the Rathaus, which today
is the entrance to the Ratskeller, was installed in 1695. The newer
Ratstrinkstube was a more elegant drinking establishment that served wine
rather than beer; this was where meetings of the city councilmen took place,
with goblets full of the finest wine, at a table carved by Tilman
Riemenschneider. In the framework of reconstruction and renovation work started
in 1912, the Magistrate gave permission in 1914 to build a Ratskeller in the
lower space of the Rathaus that had been used for salt storage, and thus linked
onto the tradition of the old Ratstrinkstube. The Ratskeller was opened in
1918. Following reconstruction after the destruction by British bombing of
1945, the Ratskeller was reopened in 1973.
MT 12:05 PM – Würzburg:
Rathaus – view of Grafeneckart from “Beim Grafeneckart” (At Grafeneckart)
street/square, between lower (west) end of Domstraße and Mainbrücke (Main
Bridge), with “new door” to Ratskeller on ground floor (behind umbrellas), oriel
(bay window) of Wenzelsaal on near (southwest) corner, and tower on southeast
corner.
The
Würzburger Rathaus (Würzburg City Hall), popularly known as
“Grafeneckart,” today consists of a motley collection of buildings and wings from
various epochs. This reflects the fact that after 1400 the city was permanently
under the control of a bishop who did not allow an imposing new building. The
central piece is the “Hof zum Grafeneckart” (Court of Count Eckart), originally
Romanesque, with tower and assembly building from around the year 1200, the
only surviving secular building from the time of the Staufer dynasty (also
known as Hohenstaufen, German Kings 1138-1254, of which three became Emperor),
which was Würzburg’s first heyday. It was originally in the Romanesque style. The
court was mentioned in 1180, as the seat of the Prince-Bishop’s “Schultheiß” (the
head of a municipality, as the executive official of the ruler, akin to today’s
office of mayor), and in 1212 was named after Count Eckart, who as Schultheiß held
the rank of a count and had his office and residence here. At the beginning of
the 14th century, the Rebstock family owned the Hof and sold it in 1316 to the
City, which from then on would use it as the Rathaus (City Hall), where the
Ratsherren (councilmen) would meet. Already in 1359, a Gothic Ratskapelle
(councilmen’s chapel) behind the Grafenekart, and in 1453 the tower was raised
to its current height with roof and clock (the town’s first public clock). In
1544, the Wenzelsaal (Wenzel Hall, named for King Wenzel IV, who met with the
councilmen here in 1397) of the Grafeneckart was enhanced with a picturesque
oriel (bay window) in Renaissance style, and near the end of the 16th century
two stories in the Franconian Renaissance style were added, resulting in a
massive 5-story building with a Renaissance gable with volutes (spiral whorls).
Then the councilmen had their own Kalterhaus (fish tank house?) built next to
the Kapelle and 20 years later a Ratstrinkstube (councilmen’s drinking room)
with its own staircase and arbor. Soon after the Thirty Years’ War (1618-48),
the City decorated their Rathaus with the “Roter Bau” (Red Building) completed
in 1659, behind the early Baroque façade of which the new meeting hall was
located. Finally, after the dissolution of the Carmelite cloister, the City in
1822 bought the then-empty three-winged Baroque building, from around 1720, to
expand the Rathaus complex on the west along the Karmelitenstraße (Carmelite
Street). At the turn of the 20th century, a new building was constructed on the
Karmelitenstraße, in Neo-Renaissance style in contrast to the Alte Mainbrücke
(Old Main Bridge). After fire and destruction at the end of WWII, Würzburg
rebuilt the Rathaus and crowned the successful reconstruction in 1973 by
restoring the Ratskeller.
12:10 PM – Würzburg: Rathaus – Roter Bau, which
serves as south entrance, set back off the Domstraße, just to the left of the Rathaus; east side of Grafeneckart
at right (mild telephoto 72 mm).
The
“Roter Bau” (Red Building), built in 1659, has a richly decorated
early-Baroque (some say Renaissance) façade of red sandstone with volutes
(spiral whorls) on the gable.
Near the Rathaus was the Alte Mainbrücke, over which we could see the Festung Marienberg on the far side of the Main, which we would visit after lunch.
12:00 PM – Würzburg: Alte Mainbrücke – view,
from east end of bridge, of Festung Marienberg on Marienberg hill on west side
of Main (mild telephoto 38 mm).
12:01 PM – Würzburg: Alte Mainbrücke – view,
from east end of bridge, of Festung Marienberg on Marienberg hill on west side
of Main; barely visible in distance to left is the Käppele church on the
Nikolausberg hill.
MT 11:56 AM – Würzburg: Alte Mainbrücke – wine bottle-shaped sign for “mainwein Weinbistro
an der alten Mainbrücke” (mild telephoto 46 mm).
The
mainwein Weinbistro an der alten Mainbrücke (Main Wine Wine Bistro at
the Old Main Bridge) is located at Alte
Mainbrücke 4, directly next to the east end of the bridge. With an impressive
view of the Festung Marienberg and the pilgrimage church “Käppele” on the
Nikolausberg to the south, young and old meet here in a lax atmosphere and
enjoy the “Brückenschoppen” (bridge 0.25-liter glass) of Franconian wine along
with tasty small snacks that are specialties of the region. The Brückenschoppen
can be drunk either in the bistro or on the bridge (with a deposit on the
glass).
12:07 PM – Würzburg: Alte Mainbrücke, looking toward west with statues of the Frankish King
Pippin the younger (father of Charlemagne) on the right (north) side and St.
Totnan on left (south) side; Festung Marienberg at left on hill on west
side of Main.
Würzburg: Alte
Mainbrücke – view from Festung Marienberg hill on west bank of Main (Von Tors,
CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=6083189).
The Alte Mainbrücke (Old Main Bridge) is the oldest bridge across the Main in Würzburg and a
symbol of the city. From the 12th century until 1886, a bridge on this spot was
the city’s only river crossing. Previously there was only a ferry there. The
current, “Old” bridge was built in 1473 (or 1476)-1543 to replace the original Romanesque
bridge dating from 1133, which had been partially destroyed during floods in
1342 and 1442. Until the 18th century, the bridge was militarily fortified. In
two phases, the bridge was adorned with twelve 4.5-meter statues of saints and
historically important figures. Beginning in 1728-29, six statues of saints (including
the Irish martyrs Totnan, Kilian, and Kolonat) were erected on the south side
of the bridge, and around 1730 another six Baroque statues were added on the
north side. All twelve sandstone figures face inwards toward the roadway. The
weather-damaged figures have now been replaced by copies. Until 1869, there was
a bridge gate, for collecting tolls, at
the western end of the bridge. The bridge, which miraculously had escaped
destruction by Allied bombing in March 1945 but was later damaged by German explosives
in the final days of WWII and was reconstructed in the 1950s. Since 1990, it has
been closed to motor vehicles and is used only by pedestrians and cyclists.
Near the east end of the Alte Mainbrücke, we saw Zwetschenkuchen (Plum Cake) in the window of a Konditorei (pastry bakery) and stopped to have some. (This was apparently after the end of our guided tour.)
12:14 PM – Würzburg: window of bakery near bridge with Zwetschenkuchen auf Hefeteig (Plum Cake
on Yeast Dough) for €2.40 a piece (top shelf left of center) and
Zwetschenkuchen auf Mürbeteig (Plum Cake on Shortcrust Dough) for €2.45 a piece
(top shelf right of center).
12:17 PM – Würzburg: one slice of our Zwetschenkuchen auf Hefeteig (Plum Cake on Yeast Dough)
for €2.40 a piece.
Then we went back into the old town center to see the inside of the Cathedral.
This text box is repeated from where it was earlier
used when we passed the exterior of the Cathedral.
Würzburg: Cathedral exterior viewed from
southwest, from Festung Marienberg (Von DXR - Eigenes Werk, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=30592898).
The Würzburger Dom (Würzburg Cathedral), also known as Dom St. Kilian or St.-Kiliansdom
(St. Kilian Cathedral) is the seat of the Bishop of Würzburg and has served as
the burial place for the prince-bishops of Würzburg for hundreds of years. This
is the third cathedral built here, after the first two (built around 787 and
855) were destroyed or partially destroyed by fire. The first cathedral was dedicated
to the Salvator (Savior). Then, from 855 to around 1000, the second cathedral
was dedicated to St. Kilian; then, from about 1000 to 1967 to St. Andreus (St.
Andrew). Since 1967, it has been dedicated to the martyrs Kilian, Kolonat, and
Totnan.
The church is a cross-shaped, three-nave basilica with a transept and a twin-tower façade.
The church is a cross-shaped, three-nave basilica with a transept and a twin-tower façade.
12:25 PM – Würzburg: Cathedral – view from rear of central nave to main altar in apse.
12:26 PM – Würzburg: Cathedral – view from large Menorah-shaped candelabra at rear of central
nave to main altar in apse.
12:27 PM – Würzburg: Cathedral – tomb of Johann II. von Brunn on a pillar on south side of
central nave (mild telephoto 63 mm).
Johann II. von
Brunn was Prince-Bishop of Würzburg from 1411 until his
death in 1440. Due to his extremely lavish lifestyle, he put the diocese in
heavy debt. Due to his poor payment of one large debt, he was imprisoned in
1431, and in 1432 he was forced to renounce his office and appoint a
co-adjutant to exercise his duties. However, in 1434, he was able to return to
office and dignity and is now buried in the Cathedral.
Würzburg: Cathedral
– epitaph of Prince-Bishop Johann II. von Brunn (Von CSvBibra - Eigenes Werk,
CC0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=22309789).
12:28 PM – Würzburg: Cathedral – pulpit on pillar on south side of central nave, near the
crossing.
The Domkanzel (Cathedral Pulpit), in sandstone, wood, and alabaster from 1608-10, has
relief scenes from the Passion of Christ around its central part and statues of
the four Evangelists around its foot.
12:28 PM – Würzburg: Cathedral – view from the crossing into the choir (apse) with main altar.
MT 12:24 PM – Würzburg:
Cathedral – view from the crossing into the choir (apse) with main altar.
MT 12:24 PM – Würzburg:
Cathedral – statue of Madonna and Child on pillar to left of choir (apse).
MT 12:25 PM – Würzburg:
Cathedral – large altar in left (north) transept.
12:29 PM – Würzburg: Cathedral – large altar in right (south) transept (telephoto 81 mm).
Then we also revisited the Neumünsterkirche in order to see
its interior.
See
earlier note on Neumünsterkirche from when we passed the exterior in the
morning.
12:32 PM – Würzburg: Neumünsterkirche – view from rear of central nave to main
altar in apse, with part of frescoed ceiling.
12:32 PM – Würzburg: Neumünsterkirche – steps leading up to main altar in apse
(with choir stalls).
12:32 PM (Cropped)
- Würzburg: Neumünsterkirche – busts of the three “Frankenapostel” Kilian
(center), Kolonat, and Totnan, copies of the originals by Tilman
Riemenschneider, between the steps leading up to the main altar.
The busts of the “Frankenapostel” (Franconian
Apostles) Kilian (center), Kolonat, and Totnan are copies from 1910 used to
replace the originals by Tilman Riemenschneider (ca. 1460-1531, active in Würzburg
from 1483) that were destroyed in the fire during the Allied bombing in 1945.
12:33 PM – Würzburg: Neumünsterkirche – fresco on ceiling of cupola above the
crossing.
This fresco titled “Verehrung der Heiligen Dreifaltigkeit durch Heilige und Engel”
(Adoration of the Holy Trinity by Saints and Angels) was painted in 1736 by
Nikolas Stuber.
12:35 PM - Würzburg: Neumünsterkirche – full-length statues of the three
“Frankenapostel” Kilian, Kolonat, and Totnan (telephoto 72 mm).
We were unable to find the cloister of the Neumünsterkirche,
where the grave of Walther von der Vogelweide is supposed to be located.
On
the north side of the church is the Lusamgärtchen (Lusam Garden), the
former cloister of the Neumünster Abbey, which most likely contains the tomb of
the medieval poet Walther von der Vogelweide, who died in 1230. A 20th-century
memorial stone marks the spot. Access is possible from Martinstraße or through
the church.
Then we went back past the Alte Mainbrücke on the way to the
Viking Skadi, which was supposed to dock at 1 pm near the Ludwigsbrücke
(Ludwig’s Bridge) farther south on the Main.
12:42 PM – Würzburg: Alte Mainbrücke, looking toward west with statues of the Frankish King
Pippin the younger (father of Charlemagne) on the right (north) side and St.
Totnan on left (south) side.
12:42 PM – Würzburg: Alte Mainbrücke – some arches and statues of south side.
12:47 PM – Würzburg: Alte Mainbrücke – wider view of arches from farther south along Main.
12:46 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg on hill
above west bank of Main, between Alte
Mainbrücke and Ludwigsbrücke; St. Burkard Church in left foreground.
The Sankt-Burkard-Kirche (St. Burkard Church) or Pfarrkirche St. Burkard (St. Burkard Parish
church) has its origin with St. Burkard, the first bishop of Würzburg (742-53),
who in 748 founded a Benedictine cloister, dedicated to the Virgin Mary and St.
Magnus, at the foot of the Marienberg hill. After the remains of St. Burkard
were transferred here in 986, the cloister previously named for St. Andreus
(Andrew) was renamed for St. Burkard. A fire that destroyed the cloister and
its church in 1630 caused the Abbot to build a new church in 1033-42. The
Romanesque part of the church was consecrated in 1042. In 1168-80, the northern
Portalvorhalle (hall before the portal), called “Paradies” (Paradise), of the
nave was built. Around 1250, polygonal upper stories and stone spires were
added to the two east towers. In 1494-95, after the Benedictine abbey was
transformed into a Ritterstift (knights foundation) or Kollegiatstift
(collegiate foundation) in 1470, the Romanesque basilica was expanded with a
late-Gothic transept, and construction of the polygonal east choir (apse). In
order to keep the street along the embankment passable, the east choir had to
be placed on arches between buttresses. In 1663-67, in the course of the
construction of new Würzburg fortifications and a canal for ships, the west
tower and two yokes of the nave were demolished. In 1803, the church became a
parish church.
MT 12:42 PM – Würzburg:
Festung Marienberg on hill above vineyards on west bank of Main (mild telephoto
65 mm).
12:50 PM – Würzburg: St. Burkard Church in foreground on west bank of Main, with vineyards and Festung
Marienberg on hill above.
12:50 PM – Würzburg: Käppele on hill south of
Festung Marienberg and above St. Burkard
Church on west bank of Main (telephoto 119 mm).
Würzburg: Käppele viewed from
Festung Marienberg (By Lukas M. (Benutzer:Renredam) - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=19446727).
Käppele (Little Chapel, a
dialectal diminutive of the German Kapelle) is the popular name of the Wallfahrtskirche
Mariä Heimsuchung (Pilgrimage Church of the Visitation of Mary) on the Nikolasberg hill southwest of Würzburg. According to plans by Balthasar
Neumann, the Baroque pilgrimage church with two octagonal façade towers was
built in 1748-50 but was not consecrated until 1824. On this site in 1640, a
Main fisherman had built a shrine with a wooden Pietá statue in his vineyard,
and it became a popular pilgrimage site for war-torn people during the Thirty
Years’ War (1618-48). Around 1653, the first small wooden Gnadenkapelle (Grace Chapel)
was built. It was repeatedly expanded and after 1748 was finally integrated
into the new pilgrimage church. Since 1764, a terraced path with Stations of
the Cross leads up to the church. The church suffered minimal damage in WWII.
This jewel of the Rococo on the Nikolasberg is a
dainty counterpart to the mighty fortress on the opposite Marienberg hill.
Externally, the church is characterized by the dainty double-tower façade and
the striking roofscape of domes, gable roofs, and tower domes. The two towers
with slender onion domes are 34 m high, and the onion dome of the central
building is 25 m high. Basically, the pilgrimage church consists of two parts:
the central building with double-tower façade (Neumann building) and the Grace
Chapel, later adapted in height. Both parts were harmoniously connected, so
that today only differences in interior design can be identified.
MT 12:42 PM – Würzburg:
Don by flowering bush.
MT 12:44 PM – Würzburg:
MT by flowering bush.
1:03 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg from
southeast (mild telephoto 44 mm).
At this point, we went to lunch aboard the Viking Skadi, although the ship was a bit late for its
scheduled 1 pm docking.
Then we crossed the river to tour Festung Marienberg on our
own, rather than taking the optional guided excursion there for €95 each, since
we didn’t have to be back onboard until 6:15.
MT 12:03 PM –
Würzburg: Festung Marienberg from southeast (mild telephoto 62 mm).
Würzburg: Festung Marienberg – diagram of layout (Von
Hajotthu, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=36564024).
The Festung Marienberg (Marienberg Fortress) is on the Marienberg (Mary’s Mountain), the hill
to the west of the city center, overlooking the whole town area as well as the
surrounding hills. Already in the late Bronze Age and the early Iron Age, there
were fortified settlements here. The Franks came in the 8th century.
The original castle was probably a small fort built
in the early 8th century on the site of an old Celtic stronghold by the
Franconian-Thuringian dukes, together with a church. The earliest parts still
preserved are from 704-707 (that small Marienkirche, which in 741 was elevated
to the first bishop’s church of Würzburg). Starting in 1201, an unusually large
castle was built, which was extended during the Middle Ages and the
Renaissance. Following the storming of the castle in 1631 by the Swedes (during
the Thirty Years’ War), Prince-Bishop Johann Philipp von Schönborn built a
circle of massive bastions to protect it. The castle served as the residence of
the prince-bishops from 1253 until 1719. Most of the current structures date to
the Renaissance and Baroque periods, but the fortifications of the chapel go
back to the 8th century. Other testaments to the fortress’s history are the
40-m-high Bergfried (keep) from the 13th century and the Brunnenhaus (well
house) from 1603 with a cistern called Tiefer Brunnen (Deep Well) over 100 m
deep. Within the fortifications stand the original donjon church dating from
the 13th century and the Renaissance-Baroque palace. In 1945, the fortress was
almost completely burned out, but its reconstruction was completed in 1990.
3:20 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg – bridge,
over moat, and first gate, the Neutor.
The Neutor (New Gate) was completed as a “new” entrance to the castle in 1652-53 by
Johann Philipp von Schönborn (Prince-Bishop 1642-73). It is also called
“Unteres schwedisches Werk” (Lower Swedish Work) because it was presumably
already begun under Swedish occupation (1633-34). The rich ornamental
decoration of the sandstone fronts, showing motifs for the prince-bishop lords
of the land, such as allusions to the participation of Johann Philipp von
Schönborn at the Treaty of Westphalia, which ended the Thirty Years’ War in
1648. The bridge over the moat was once equipped with a drawbridge with
counterweights that tipped it back and forth like a large see-saw. The gate was
largely renovated in the 20th century.
3:21 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg – MT (at right) approaching
outer side of the Neutor.
The outer, rather simply ornamented side of the Neutor features a gilded Schönborn
coat of arms held by grim lions in a triangular pediment. The lions symbolize
strength and underscore the steadfastness of the structure and defenders
against advancing enemies. There are also striking armed guards, grimacing
masks, and other figures.
Würzburg: Festung Marienberg – inner side of the Neutor (Von Rufus46 - Eigenes Werk, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=52008515).
The inner side has the same coat of arms, this time carried by angels. The two
women to the left and right of the coat of arms personify Youth and Old Age:
Youth, at the left, with a horn of plenty in her hand, out of which pour fruits
and blossoms (symbols of Spring), and flowers decorating her hair; Old Age, at the
right, with grapes in a basket (symbol for Autumn). At closer inspection, the
old woman has teeth missing. Hercules is enthroned in the door gable. To the
left and right of him are heroic stone figures (warriors), who watch over the
gate like watchmen, and two lions.
3:29 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg –
approaching next gate, the Schönborntor.
3:29 PM (Cropped) –
Würzburg: Festung Marienberg –
closer view of Schönborn Gate.
The Schönborntor (Schönborn Gate) leads between the “Wer Da?” (Who’s There?) and “Cäsar”
(Ceasar) bastions on the north side of the fortress. It is named for Johann
Philipp von Schönborn and bears his coat of arms on the gables of both its
sides. The gables were kept very simple, although the inner one has an angel
holding the coat of arms and shows the year of the gate’s construction “1649.” The
gate passageway is clearly curved; this made it impossible to shoot through the
closed gates smoothly, since the bullets would ricochet off the wall. In the
past, this gate was equipped with a drawbridge on the outside, over a ditch.
Würzburg: Festung Marienberg – outer gable of
Schönborn Gate (By René Zechow at https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Festung_Marienberg_W%C3%BCrzburg_-_Wappen_am_Sch%C3%B6nborntor_-_panoramio.jpg
).
3:31 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg –
approaching next gate, Echtertor, which led to Museum and Fürstenbau
(Prince-Bishops’ Residence).
The Echtertor (Echter Gate), also known as Michaelstor (Michael’s Gate), in front of
the Echter-Bastei (Echter Bastion), was built in 1605-06.
Starting in 1572, Julius Echter von Mespelbrunn (served
as Prince-Bishop 1573-1617) ordered large new construction and remodeling in
Renaissance style. Between the Scherenbergtor (Scherenberg Gate) and the Museum
für Franken (Museum for Franks) is located the exterior portal of the
Echter-Bastei with the Echtertor, completed in 1606, over which is placed a
statue of the Archangel Michael, the “Patron of the Empire and Guardian Angel
of the Counterreformation,” slaying a dragon (the symbol of the Devil or Evil).
To the left and right of the archway are two pairs of Tuscan columns, by which the
gate makes a powerful impression, and each pair is surmounted by a small
obelisk. On the left of the outside of the gate, which originally had a
drawbridge (a wooden scroll is preserved), there is a round, stepped firing
port for a heavy gun. On the inside of the gate is a panel with a German
inscription that translates: “Bishop Julius has trusted God and built this new
gate house when he had completed thirty-three years in his reign. He carried
out this construction for the benefit and adornment of the Fatherland. May God grant
that all this is watched over by the power of His Holy Angels.”
The Echter Vorburg (Echter fore-castle) was an outer fortification built by Julius Echter
around 1605 in place of previously existing farm buildings. It encloses the
Echterhof (Echter Courtyard), which is a 40 x 50 meter courtyard between the
Echtertor and the Halsgraben (moat) in front of the Scherenbergtor and bordered
to the north and south by two-story wings that served as shops and storage
rooms as well as stables. At the endangered west side, a new bulwark was
created: the Echterbastei (Echter Bastion), which is an above-ground casemate
structure with cannon stands and a mighty, covered parapet.
3:31 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg – closer
view of Echtertor, with statue of Archangel Michael.
3:32 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg – view,
from near Echtertor, toward next gate, Scherenbergtor, with Kiliansturm to left
rear of that gate; Pferdeschwemme behind cover at right.
The
Scherenbergtor (Scherenberg Gate) is the only gate that leads to the
Innerer Burghof (Inner Castle Courtyard). This gate and the Halsgraben (a moat
that does not reach all around the castle) in front of it protected the most
vulnerable approach to the castle (from the west). Its construction was
completed in 1482 by Rudolf II. von Scherenberg, Prince-Bishop of Würzburg from 1466 until his death in 1495).
It was part of his Scherenburgring, a ring wall with round towers that offered
better protection from fire of heavy weapons than older cornered towers and had
firing ports that allowed defenders to cover the surrounding landscape without
dead spaces. The gate is a Torburg (fortified gate) with round towers protruding
on each side. Under an arch in the middle above the passageway on the west
façade are statues of the three Franconian Apostles (Kilian in the middle,
Kolonat on the left, and Totnan on the right), and above that arch is a statue
of the Virgin Mary between coats of arms of the Bishopric of Würzburg (left) and the Duchy of Franconia
(right). Above the Virgin is the coat of arms of Friedrich von Wirsberg (Prince-Bishop
1558-73) with the Latin inscription “Nic deus hanc arcem coelo defendat ab alto
/ Nic hominum virtus excubiaeque valent” (If the castle is not defended by God
from the high Heaven / Then human courage and all watchfulness are in vain). A
coat of arms with the date 1482 under the left arch next to statues of the
three Franconian Apostles refers to Rudolf II. von Scherenberg, although
construction the gate and the ring wall had begun under his predecessor Otto
II. von Wolfskeel (Prince-Bishop 1333-45). In 1716, a stone bridge replaced the
original wooden drawbridge (for which there are still slots in the wall over
the passageway).
Würzburg: Festung Marienberg –
postcard from around 1900 with view, from near Echtertor, toward,
Scherenbergtor, with Kiliansturm (which then had a different, flater roof on
the octagonal top) to left rear of that gate; Pferdeschwemme in right
foreground, covered (By Unknown - http://www.zeno.org - Zenodot Verlagsgesellschaft
mbH, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=17459072).
The
Kiliansturm
(Kilian’s Tower), then still known as Michaelsturm (Michaels Tower), was
probably created at this spot already in the 13th century. However, at the
latest under Rudolf II. von Scherenberg, when he had the ring wall around the
fortress strengthened. Julius Echter renovated the tower in 1606 as a
counterpart to the newly-created Marienturm and donated the gilded statue of
St. Kilian that tops it. Since that time, the tower has born the new name
Kiliansturm. At that time the top of the tower was formed by a cupola with
lantern, which was destroyed by fire in 1840. During reconstruction, the
octagonal upper part of the tower was increased in height and topped with a
flat roof. In the course of restoration work on the fortress in 1938, the
cupola roof of the Echter era was reconstructed, and a new gilded statue of St.
Kilian was created based on old pictures.
Würzburg: Festung Marienberg –
Kiliansturm, viewed from west (By DXR / Daniel Vorndran, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=33195177).
3:33 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg – closer
view of Scherenbergtor, with Kiliansturm behind it at left.
3:33 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg – closer view of sculptures on Scherenbergtor.
3:33 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg – (dry)
moat, with round towers of ring wall, to right of Scherenbergtor.
3:33 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg – inner
court with dome of Marienkirche and Bergfried.
The inner court features the free-standing Romanesque 13th-century Bergfried, the
Renaissance well house from 1603, and the Marienkirche.
In case of a storming of the fortress, the heavily fortified tower was the last place of refuge. For this reason, the only entrance was markedly high. Only around 1600 was the stone staircase tower added on the outside leading up to that entrance.
In case of a storming of the fortress, the heavily fortified tower was the last place of refuge. For this reason, the only entrance was markedly high. Only around 1600 was the stone staircase tower added on the outside leading up to that entrance.
3:39 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg –
Bergfried with part of Kiliansturm visible behind it to its left.
3:33 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg –
Bergfried, viewed from near base.
4:04 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg – Bergfried, with door (up stairs) at base leading to interior of tower and another door at base of what appeared to be a spiral staircase with windows.
MT 3:59 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg –
Bergfried, with Don at door (up stairs) at base leading to interior of tower
and another door at base of what appeared to be a spiral staircase with windows.
Festung Marienberg – Bergfried:
“Angstloch” and connecting shaft inside the tower (https://wuerzburgwiki.de/w/index.php?curid=13300).
Surrounding the inner court is the four-wing Fürstenbau (Princes’
Residence) or Palas (Palace). Three of its four corners are marked by towers
(clockwise from the northwest) Kiliansturm (Kilian’s Tower), Marienturm (Mary’s
Tower), and Randersackererturm. These mostly date from the rebuilding of the castle
in the early 17th century. The Fürstenbau itself mostly reflects late
16th-17th-century architecture and design but also includes the Bibra Treppe
(stairway) built in 1511. In the great hall (Fürstensaal), some 13th-century
structures have been revealed.
3:35 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg – dome of
Marienkirche (with scaffolding) and part of its nave at its immediate right; at
right is part of the Brunnenhaus, with the top of the Bibraturm rising behind
it.
The first Marienkirche was built around 706 and dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary, the
patron saint of Franconia. The Merovingian round building, which was later
remodeled several times, is one of the oldest buildings in Germany and the
oldest stone building on the right of the Rhine. After the Diocese of Würzburg
was created in 742, it was the original cathedral of Würzburg and the burial
site the bishops until the remains of the martyrs Kilian, Kolonat, and Totnan
were relocated to the new Cathedral on the other side of the Main in 788. The
foundations of the church in the generally Romanesque form we see today can be
dated by style analysis to the beginning of the 11th century, although it possibly
used some of the original structure. While the basic form of two cylinders placed
on top of each other remains, the building’s proportions were changed in the early
13th century, when the height of the cylindrical part was increased, and larger
windows were installed. After a fire in 1600, Bishop Echter rebuilt it, adding
the domed roof (with a lantern on its cupola) and the Echterchor (Echter
Choir). In 1699, Prince-Bishop Johann Philipp von Greiffenclau zu Volraths
began further restoration of the prince-bishops’ castle. This included refurnishing
(the interior of) the Marienkirche, which served as the castle chapel. The
interior mostly dates from his reign and reflects the Renaissance style with
first indications of the coming Baroque period. The altars inside are Baroque.
Inside the Bibraturm (Bibra Tower) is the Bibratreppe (Bibra Staircase). An inscription above the exterior door at the base of
the tower says that this building was erected in 1511.
Würzburg: Festung Marienberg – Brunnenhaus with
figures of St. Jerome, Samson with lion, and Daniel above fountain basin and statue
of Fortuna on roof; Bergfried in background and Marienkirche at right (By
Tilman2007 - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=35051309).
The Brunnenhaus (well house), also known as Brunnentempel
(well temple) is built over the 102-m-deep Tiefer Brunnen (deep well), also
called the Festungsbrunnen (fortress well). Construction of the well was
necessary in order to ensure water supply to the upper castle in case of siege,
rather than relying on delivery of water from outside. The well shaft was dug
in 1200 and is fed by two springs, as well as ground water. The structural
enclosure of the well was built by Prince-Bishop Julius Echter around 1600 to
protect the water from pollution. It has an octagonal central building
decorated on the outside with heads of mythical animals as gargoyles. The
bronze figure of Fortuna (Fortune) can be seen on the roof. On the east side is
a stone fountain basin. In the middle, the waterspout is designed as a figure
of Samson with the lion. There are also reliefs of Hieronymus (St. Jerome) on
the left and Daniel on the right. In the Baroque period, the well house was
rebuilt with a bulky stone mantle to protect it from destruction by cannon
attacks. It was not until 1937 that the underlying structure was rediscovered
and uncovered. The roof was reconstructed in 1938 based on an engraving from
1604, which shows the original structure in detail. Based on the same model, the
new figure of the goddess Fortuna was created.
3:35 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg – inner
courtyard with Randersacker Turm at far corner and old-style sign for
Burg-Gaststätte (Castle Restaurant) on east wing of Fürstenbau at right
(entrance of Fürstenbaumuseum barely visible at far right).
The Burg-Gaststätte (Castle
Restaurant) currently makes use of the southern Hofstubenbau (now conference
center) with its outdoor terraces.
3:36 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg – inner
courtyard with part of Brunnenhaus at lower left, behind it the dome and nave
of the Marienkirche (with a cylindrical structure in red sandstone on its
corner), and at right the Bibraturm.
4:06 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg – dome
and nave of Marienkirche (with a cylindrical structure in red sandstone on its
corner); part of Bergfried at left.
4:07 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg – northeast
corner of inner court with Kiliansturm behind it.
MT 3:37 PM – Würzburg:
Festung Marienberg – Don by small, square tower on our way to the Fürstengarten
garden and overlook via the Marienturm.
3:39 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg –
Marienturm, at its base a passageway to the Fürstengarten garden and overlook
(corner of roof of small, square tower at far left foreground).
The Marienturm (St. Mary’s Tower), from 1604, is located on the northeast corner of the
main castle. A gilded statue of the Virgin Mary with a radiant wreath was
emplaced at its top in 1607 (in 1814, occupying French troops took down the
statue and are said to have sold it for scrap metal). Bishop Julius Echter had
the tower built as he rebuilt part of the castle after a fire in 1600.
Following the ideal if a Renaissance palace, the central courtyard would be
enclosed in four wings with four towers on the corners (however, the tower on
the southwest was never built). A smaller, semicircular tower on the north side
of the Marienturm was added in 1653 to contain a pumping station that insured
water supply of the upper castle in case of siege.
3:42 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg – view
from upper terrace at north end of Fürstengarten, with Viking Skadi (long ship)
docked on Main by Ludwigsbrücke bridge.
Würzburg: Festung Marienberg – view of
Fürstengarten from upper terrace at north end (By fotogoocom, CC BY 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=57857009).
On the former artillery battery position on east
side of the Fürstenbau the Fürstengarten (Princes’
Garden), a formal Baroque garden on a platform facing the city. This garden was
first mentioned in 1523 and was essentially laid out by Johann Philipp von
Schönborn (Prince-Bishop in 1642-73) in the style of an Italian villa garden;
before his time, it had still been a medieval-style garden. The artful terraces
with magnificent balustrades and probably also the two cascading fountains on the narrow north and south sides come from
his time. The balustrade on the long side facing the city has a lookout balcony
in the middle bearing the Schönborn coat of arms. From 1699 to 1719, it
received its present form under Prince-Bishop Johann Philipp von Greiffenclau
zu Volraths. At that time, the corners of the rectangle formed by the eight-section
flower beds (with a fountain basin in the middle) were adorned with
mythological figures, perhaps symbolizing the four seasons according to the
Italian model. Above the curved staircases at the sides of the cascading
fountains are small pavilions. At the beginning of the 20th century, the garden
was weedgrown and overgrown with trees. It was restored in 1937-38 according to
fortress plans of the early 18th century. It offers a unique view of Würzburg
and the Main Valley, from Steinberg as
far as Randersacker, as well as of the Nikolausberg with Käppele.
MT 3:38 PM – Würzburg:
Festung Marienberg – view from upper terrace at north end of Fürstengarten,
with Viking Skadi (long ship) docked on Main by Ludwigsbrücke bridge.
3:42 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg – view,
from Fürstengarten, of Würzburg and
Main with Alte Mainbrücke bridge.
3:42 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg – view,
from Fürstengarten, of Würzburg and
Main with Alte Mainbrücke bridge at far left and Burkardkirche on near
bank at lower right.
MT 3:39 PM – Würzburg:
Festung Marienberg – view, from Fürstengarten, of Würzburg and Main with
Burkardkirche on near bank.
3:42 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg – view,
from Fürstengarten, of Würzburg and
Viking Skadi docked near Ludwigsbrücke bridge; vineyards below castle
and a bit of Burkardkirche on near bank at lower left.
MT 3:41 PM – Würzburg:
Festung Marienberg – view, from Fürstengarten, of Würzburg and Viking Skadi
docked near Ludwigsbrücke bridge; vineyards below castle and a bit of Burkardkirche
on near bank at lower left.
3:43 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg – view,
from Fürstengarten, of city with Marienkapelle
and Rathaus in foreground (telephoto 156 mm).
3:43 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg – view,
from Fürstengarten, of Cathedral (telephoto 156 mm).
3:43 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg – view,
from Fürstengarten, of Residenz (telephoto 156 mm).
3:44 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg – view,
from Fürstengarten, of west end of Burkardkirche below vineyard (telephoto 72
mm).
3:44 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg – view,
from Fürstengarten, of Viking Skadi
docked near Ludwigsbrücke bridge (telephoto 119 mm).
3:44 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg –
Fürstengarten, view from upper terrace at north end, with cascading fountain,
curved staircases and pavilion at south end past flower gardens, lookout
balcony at left, and east side of Fürstenbau at right.
3:46 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg – view,
from Fürstengarten, of Alte Mainbrücke
bridge (telephoto 119 mm).
3:52 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg – view, from upper terrace at south end of Fürstengarten toward cascading fountain, curved staircases and pavilion at north end; Fürstenbau with Marienturm at left and lookout balcony overlooking Main at right.
3:46 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg – view,
from lower level of south end of Fürstengarten toward cascading fountain,
curved staircases and pavilion at north end, with Marienturm at left.
MT 3:43 PM – Würzburg:
Festung Marienberg – cascading fountain, curved staircases and statues at north
end of Fürstengarten.
MT 3:43 PM – Würzburg:
Festung Marienberg – MT and Don by statue below curved staircase at north end
of Fürstengarten.
MT 3:47 PM – Würzburg:
Festung Marienberg – view, from south end of Fürstengarten, of Burkardkirche on
Main below vineyards.
MT 3:59 PM – Würzburg:
Festung Marienberg – Don on passage from south end of Fürstengarten back toward
inner courtyard, with Kiliansturm in distance; short towers on wall at right
are part of the Scherenbergzwinger outer fortifications.
3:59 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg – passage
from south end of Fürstengarten back toward inner courtyard, with Kiliansturm
in distance; short towers on wall at right are part of the Scherenbergzwinger
outer fortifications.
4:09 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg – view of
Käppele on Nikolausberg hill south of fortress (telephoto 105 mm).
We exited the inner court fortress through the Scherenbergtor, through which
we had entered it.
4:09 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg –
Kiliansturm and Scherenbergtor, with stone bridge over moat.
4:10 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg –
Kiliansturm, showing more of lower tower, and Scherenbergtor, with top of stone
bridge over moat.
4:16 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg – inner
side of Inneres Höchberger Tor.
The Inneres Höchberger Tor (Inner Höchberg*
Gate), also called Guttenbergtor, in the northwest of the outer fortifications leads
through the so-called Niederwall (Lower Wall) of the Schwedenschanze.**
Würzburg: Festung Marienberg –
inner side of Inneres Höchberger Tor on west side; white sign at left of portal
indicates this is the way to the Parkplatz (parking lot) and the Schönborntor (By
User: Bbb at wikivoyage shared, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=22671364).
The
triangular gable of outer portal features the coat of arms of Johann Gottfried
von Guttenberg (Prince-Bishop 1684-98) and the year 1684 (the year of the start
of Guttenberg’s reign), flanked by lions. Outside of the gate, the castle path
crossed a large ditch in front of the Niederwall by means of a drawbridge.
This
gate is in the immediate vicinity of the large parking lot. The way through the
gate leads to the Schönborntor, which is the entrance into the actual castle
grounds.
*Höchberg
is a municipality with a town of the same name in the district of Würzburg, bordering directly on the west side
of the city of Würzburg.
**The
Schwedenschanze (Swedish Entrenchment), west of the Neues Zeughaus (New
Arsenal), consists of several bastions. Immediately after his Swedish army
occupied the fortress in 1631, during the Thirty Years’ War (1618-48), the
Swedish King Gustav Adolf gave orders for a massive expansion of the defensive
system, surrounding the fortress with several new bastions farther down the
hill to the west of the Neues Zeughaus. The Swedes were not driven out until
1648.
On our way back down from the Marienberg fortress, one option was to turn right (east) toward the Schönborntor, retracing the way we had come up. A sign told us that would be a 20-minute walk. The other option on the sign was to take the “Weinwanderweg” (Wine Hiking Way) that turned left (west) to follow an alternate route leading around the outer fortifications to the south and then east. Since we didn’t have to be back onboard the ship until 6:15 pm, we chose the more scenic Weinwanderweg, which the sign said would take 40 minutes. MT also preferred this way in order to avoid the many steps on the other option; both ways would lead to the Alte Mainbrücke.
The
Weinwanderweg Schlossberg und Leiste (Wine Hiking Way Castle Hill and
Ledge) was opened in 1989. It leads from the fortress down to the St.
Burkardkirche on the Main, or vice versa. It crosses the Würzburger Schlossberg and Innere Leiste
(Inner Ledge) vineyards and passes the Maschikuliturm tower along the way.
This path offers views over the Altstadt of Würzburg and the Main Valley, as well as the Nikolausberg with the
Käppele and into the Leiste. The upper end of the path leads to the parking lot
of the fortress.
Würzburg: Festung Marienberg – view from
south-southwest showing Neues Zeughaus at west end of the complex of buildings;
below the wall surrounding it is the Weinwanderweg path leading southeast
through vineyards to the round tower, Maschikuliturm,
and then continuing to the east through more vineyards (By Rainer Lippert at
de.wikipedia - selbst gemacht, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=16539332).
https://wuerzburgwiki.de/wiki/Festung_Marienberg#/media/File:Festung_Marienberg_Luftaufnahme.jpg has an aerial photo
of Festung Marienberg from southeast that shows more clearly the route we took
on the Weinwanderweg; however, it has a notice, in German, saying that the
author of the photo made it available only for use in WürzburgWiki and that others may not copy it or further use it.
Nevertheless, I can describe what that photo shows: at the far (west)
end of the fortress complex is the Neues Zeughaus; beyond it is the Niederwall
through which we had exited the complex and the Weinwanderweg footpath leading
southeast to a round tower, the Maschikuliturm,
then continuing east before turning north through vineyards toward the Alte
Mainbrücke; however, directly below the vineyards is the St. Burkardkirche on
the bank of the Main.
4:16 PM – Würzburg: Festung Marienberg – inner
portal of Äußeres Höchberger Tor (Outer Höchberg Gate) through the Niederwall,
which could be seen through Inneres Höchberger Tor in Don’s preceding photo.
4:20 PM – Würzburg: Weinwanderweg – view to
south, down through vineyard on steep slope.
4:20 PM – Würzburg: Weinwanderweg – approaching
Mischikuliturm as path goes through
vineyards to southeast; the Käppele on Nikolausberg in distance, to south.
MT 4:17 PM – Würzburg:
Weinwanderweg – Don with grapevines in vineyard on steep slope.
MT 4:18 PM – Würzburg:
Weinwanderweg – green grapes in vineyard on steep slope.
MT 4:18 PM – Würzburg:
Weinwanderweg – purple grapes in vineyard on steep slope.
4:23 PM – Würzburg: Weinwanderweg – parapet of Maschikuliturm; the Käppele on Nikolausberg in distance, to
south (mild telephoto 63 mm).
Würzburg: Festung Marienberg – Mischikuliturm, surrounded by vineyard, and western
bastions of fortress (By User: Bbb at wikivoyage shared, CC BY-SA
3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=22671365).
The Maschikuliturm (Maschikuli Tower) is a free-standing bastion located to the
south-southwest of the Festung Marienberg, It can be reached via the Leistenstraße
(Ledge Street) or the Weinwanderweg (either down from the fortress or up from
the St. Burkardkirche. The four-story, round tower was built by the architect
Balthasar Neumann in 1724-30 to secure the south flank. The round tower
consists of three levels for heavy guns and an upper platform for infantry fire.
In the outer walls of the top platform, in each of the 21 niches for infantrymen,
aside from a normal firing slot for infantry, there is an additional firing
opening aiming directly downward (for defense of the foot of the tower), which
led to the name Maschikuli.* These holes remain open today but are covered with
grates for safety. On the valley side of the tower, from 1527, is the coat of
arms of Prince-Bishop Christoph Franz von Hutten (reign 1724-29), who
commissioned the tower, below a bust of St. John Nepomuk. On the outside of the
wall is the coat of arms of Prince-Bishop Friedrich Karl von Schönborn (reign
1729-46), during whose reign the tower was finally completed.
Today, this is considered among the most important
single structures of fortifications in Germany. After the fortress ceased its
defensive function, the tower fell into disrepair, but it was restored in
1987-90. The covered, partly underground casemate connecting the tower to the main
fortress was also built by Neumann in 1734-38, commissioned by Friedrich Karl
von Schönborn.
* The name Maschikuli comes from the French
word machicoulis, which also led to the English germ machicolation,
which means (1) an opening in the floor of a projecting gallery or parapet,
between the supports or corbels, or in the roof over an entrance, through which
hot liquids, heavy stones, etc. could be dropped by the defenders of a
fortress; (2) a gallery, parapet, etc. with such openings. In this case, it
refers to openings in the tower used for such defensive purposes.
4:35 PM – Würzburg: Weinwanderweg – view of west
side of St. Burkardkirche.
4:35 PM – Würzburg: Weinwanderweg – looking back
up at east side of fortress.
4:37 PM – Würzburg: Weinwanderweg – view of path
downhill in direction of Alte Mainbrücke, with east side of fortress above wall
and vineyard on right.
Then we had a seemingly endless series of
switchbacks toward and away from the Alte Mainbrücke. Finally, as the
switchbacks seemed to continue, we saw a sign pointing to “Weinweg zur Stadt”
(Wine Way to City), which led down some steps and through a dark tunnel (where
MT used the light of her iPhone) that came out near St. Burkardkirche.
4:39 PM – Würzburg: Weinwanderweg – our long
shadows in tunnel of “Weinweg zur Stadt” (with light from MT’s iPhone).
4:42 PM – Würzburg: archway for one lane of
traffic under choir (apse) of St. Burkardkirche.
From there, it was closer to the Ludwigsbrücke than back to the Alte Mainbrücke, but we had a hard time finding how to get up on the bridge from the lower level. We finally asked at a bar by the "Löwenbrücke" bus stop sign, and they said to go up some stairs close to the bar. Once across the bridge, we turned left (north) toward where the Viking Skadi was docked. However, we couldn't see the way down to the dock until a man went around what we thought was a railing—which led to steps down.
After dinner, we stayed for a trivia contest in the Lounge. Our team, with our friend Jo. only got 14 of 30 questions correct, but one team got 23.
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