17 AUG 18 Bamberg

This post is based primarily on Don's notes, occasionally supplemented with MT's notes from our cruise in 2018. When information from other sources is added—for further explanation to readers or to satisfy our own curiosity—that is set off in a text box (as this one). Most of the photos that accompany this post are from Don’s camera (with a caption indicating the time it was taken); those from MT’s iPhone are indicated by “MT” placed at the beginning of the photo caption. Photos from any other source (such as the public domain Wikimedia Commons), occasionally used for clarification, indicate that source in the caption.

The forecast in the Viking Daily newsletter was "Partly Cloudy, 15-31° C/59-88°."

The Viking Skadi sailed in the morning until it arrived at Ziel am Main at approximately 1 pm. We intended to sleep in until 8:30 am but woke at 7:30. At 8:30, we went to a continental breakfast on the Aquavit Terrace, where we again had trouble with bees.

Friday, 17 August, 2018, 8:33 AM - Viking Skadi: painting of Norse goddess Skadi.

8:33 AM - Viking Skadi: sign about goddess Skadi:

"SKADI

"The giantess Skadi is the Norse goddess of winter. She is also associated with hunting.

"Artist: Roy Chr. Lauritsen."

After breakfast, we went back to our stateroom (116) and started packing our suitcases for the transfer on Saturday to the Viking Bragi.

.

11:41 AM - Viking Skadi: water just outside our stateroom window.

Then we ate lunch in the ship's Restaurant.

Around 1:00 pm, the Skadi made a brief stop in Ziel am Main, where passengers would leave the ship for the afternoon excursions.

 

The Viking Daily newsletter described the included 4.5-hour excursion “Bamberg Walking Tour” as follows:
“See the burial place of emperors and the home of smoked beer on this included excursion. You will join your local guide and head to the medieval city center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Visit the magnificent 11th-century cathedral with its four imposing towers. The church was built in the late Romanesque and early Gothic style in the 13th century; this is where both Emperor Henry II and Pope Clement II are buried. You can pause to admire the detailed statue of the Bamberger Reiter, or Bamberg Horseman, here. You will also see the picturesque Rathaus, or Town Hall, built in the middle of a double-arched bridge over the Regnitz River. From here, you can see fishermen’s cottages on the nearby riverbanks. You will have time to follow your own whims in Bamberg, perhaps sampling some of the town’s distinctive rauchbier, or smoke-flavored beer, before rejoining your ship.”

At 1:30, the Skadi cast off from Ziel am Main to Bamberg, while passengers transferred by bus to the city of Bamberg, followed by a guided walking tour and free time. We were told that at 5:45 the busses would depart from the same place where they dropped us off. At 6:30, the Skadi would make a brief stop in Bamberg, where passengers would rejoin the ship after the shore excursion.

 

Bamberg (pop. 76,674) is one of the most beautiful small cities in Europe. It is located in Oberfranken (Upper Franconia), now in northern Bavaria. It sits on the river Regnitz close to the confluence with the river Main. Here, the Regnitz divides into two arms, which flow into the Main 7 km downstream. The oldest part of the town is on the high west bank of the left arm of the river (Linker Regnitzarm), with the Cathedral and the old Benedictine abbey of Michaelsberg.

Bamberg’s long history goes back to 902 AD, when its name was derived from the nearby Babenberch castle, where the Babenberg family briefly established its residence. It was brought to prominence by the 11th-century Emperor Heinrich II* (also known as Saint Henry the Exuberant), who wanted to turn it into a German metropolis to rival Rome. Like ancient Rome, it is situated on seven hills, each crowned by a church. Although it never grew to become particularly big, it nonetheless has a sense of spacious grandeur that belies its actual size. The town experienced a period of great prosperity from the 12th century onward, during which time it was briefly the center of the Holy Roman Empire. From the middle of the 13th century onward, the bishops were princes of the Empire, and the Prince-Bishop of Bamberg ruled Bamberg, overseeing the construction of monumental buildings. The town further grew and prospered in the wake of the Thirty Years’ War (1618-48), in which it was on the Catholic side. The bishopric of Bamberg lost its independence in 1802, following the secularization of church lands, and became part of Bavaria in 1803.

Its relative geographical isolation, some 60 km north of Nürnberg and 50 km south of Cologne, was a key factor in preserving its magnificent artistic heritage from the ravages of Allied bombing in WWII. Every European style from the Romanesque onward had left its mark on the city.
From medieval times, Bamberg was the starting point for shipping on the Main. It is now the northern starting point of the Main-Danube Canal, which was built between 1960 and 1992.

*Growing up in the Duchy of Bavaria, Heinrich II was very fond of Bamberg. As Duke of Bavaria, appointed in 995, Heinrich became King of the Romans (King of Germany) in 1002, and King of Italy in 1004. In 1007, Heinrich II established the diocese of Bamberg, and he was responsible for the building of the Cathedral, completed in 1012. In 1014, Heinrich II arrived in Rome, restoring Benedict VIII as Pope, and the Pope crowned him as Holy Roman Emperor. In 1024, Heinrich II fell ill in Bamberg and died, and he was buried in the Cathedral there.

 

2:15 PM -  Bamberg: Klein-Venedig on left arm of Regnitz river.

Klein-Venedig (Little Venice) is a district consisting of a row of old fishermen’s cottages from the 17^th century. Located on Bamberg’s Regnitzinsel (Regnitz Island) directly on the bank of the Linker Regnitzarm (left arm of the Regnitz river), their picturesque facades are adorned with pots of geraniums. It presents one of the very few medieval scenes in the lower parts of Bamberg. Visitors come here for a glass of Rauchbier—a local beer with a smoky flavor.

MT 2:18 PM - Bamberg: Klein-Venedig on Linker Regnitzarm, with marker sign in left foreground (mild telephoto 36 mm).

2:18 PM - Bamberg: Klein-Venedig on Linker Regnitzarm, with marker sign in left foreground.

5:17 PM - Bamberg: Klein-Venedig – same sign we passed again later, on the Flusspfad Bamberg (Bamberg River Path), on our way back to the ship; German text at right, with numbers as key to points of interest on the map at left, translates:
“Klein-Venedig
“A row of mariner’s and fishermen’s houses, which received this romantic name from King Maximilian I (1848-1864). Every year in August, the ensemble is festively illuminated for Sandkerwa.
“Fishermen and Mariners
“lived in Bamberg initially in the area of Sandstadt below the Domberg (1). Then, probably in the 14th century, a settlement arose on the opposite bank (2). At that time, this area was an island (3), which was named Abtswörth [Abbot's Island] (3)."
"The Houses (2)
"were Pfahlbauten [pile structures] built half on the water. Earlier, the galleries were used for drying and mending nets. Even the toilets here were attached over the water. In the lower floors, which were open earlier, the boots (Schelche) (4) could drive directly in. Since the 19th century, an area on the bank was established, which today has been converted into small, picturesque gardens."
The small caption under the map translates: "City Plan by Petrus Zweidler 1602 (State Library Bamberg, reworked)." The cartoon character below the map says: "Where did the fishermen shelter their boats earlier?"

 

The Sandkerwa is the largest folk festival in Bamberg and one of the largest and most beautiful folk festivals in Bavaria. In five days, the dedication of the St. Elisabethkirche is celebrated in the historical old part of town of Bamberg, called the “Sand,” around the Sandstraße (Sand Street). Sandkerwa is the Frankish for Sandkirchweihe (Sand church dedication). It is a unique combination between tradition and modern. Every year in August, over 200,000 visitors celebrate in the narrow streets around Schlenkerla in Bamberg and enjoy the romantic ambience in front of Klein-Venedig. Sankerwa festival flags float high above the cobbled streets. The narrow streets are made narrower by wooden stands selling bread and brews.
The high point of the festival is the historic Fischerstechen (fish jousting) of the Bamberg Mariners and Fishermen Guild. It is a sporting competition between two teams on rowing boats; the aim is to push the members of the other team into the water with the help of a spear.
Sandstadt or just Sand is a historical part of Bamberg, around the Sandstraße (Sand Street).

Near Klein-Venedig, we came to the Elisabethkirche, which is also near the Altes Rathaus (Old City Hall).

2:20 PM - Bamberg: approaching Elisabethkirche, with tour group "Viking Bragi 13G."

The Elisabethkirche, the former Spitalkirche St. Elisabeth (St. Elisabeth Hospital Church), now the Catholic Kirche St. Elisabeth (Church of St. Elisabeth) was built in 1338, in the Sandstraße. It was modified in 1493 and 1725, with further modification of the façade on 1878-83.

2:20 PM - Bamberg: Elisabethkirche - façade.

2:21 PM - Bamberg: near Elisabethkirche - statue of St. Francis of Assisi, with Viking Bragi 13G tour guide.

2:22 PM - Bamberg: Elisabethkirche - façade and south side.

MT 2:17 PM - Bamberg: half-timbered house on Untere Sandstraße (No. 2) near Elisbethkirche.

Near the Elisabethkirche, the Bamberg Way of the Cross begins.

Bamberg: map of Kreuzweg: E = Elisabethkirche, A = Aufseesianum, M = Michelsgerg, G = St. Getreu, 1-7 = stations of the cross (Von --Immanuel Giel 07:25, 1 June 2007 (UTC) - Eigenes Werk, Gemeinfrei, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=2185299).

The Bamberger Kreuzweg (Bamberg Way of the Cross) from the year 1503 is the oldest completely surviving Way of the Cross in Germany. It goes back to a donation by the knight Heinrich Marschalk von Ebneth zu Rauheneck, who had a relationship with the Benedictine abbey Michelsberg. In 1500 and 1503, Marschalk donated Friday masses in the Elisabethkapelle (St. Elisabeth Chapel) and in the Propsteikirche (Provost Church) St. Getreu. Probably during this time occurred the sculpture work of the Way of the Cross by an unknown sculptor. Of the traditional 14 stations, only 9 were carried out in Bamberg. Seven stations lead from the Eisabethkirche to St. Getreu. The first station is near the Elisabethkirche and the last is in front of St. Getreu. The stations were heavily damaged in the Bauernkrieg (Peasants’ War) in 1525. In addition, a so-called “nose surgeon” gave the figures uniform noses during the restoration in 1907.

The purpose of the Way of the Cross was to allow the faithful who could not afford a pilgrimage to the holy Land to relive the Passion of Christ in Jerusalem. In the first late medieval Stations of the Cross, it was customary to transfer the distances between the individual stations during a pilgrimage in Jerusalem to local conditions in order to enable the faithful to follow the suffering in prayer, It is not known whether the founder wrote down the number of steps during a pilgrimage in Jerusalem or took it from another source. The distance from Pilate’s House is engraved in steps on each station.

2:23 PM -  Bamberg: near Elisabethkirche - station of the cross for Pilate's House, pointed to with our guide's "Viking Bragi 13G" paddle on left and with identifying sign at right; the guide said something about a hand being cut off.

2:23 PM -  Bamberg: near Elisabethkirche - sign for that station of the cross for Pilate's House (telephoto 93 mm); the sign, in German, reads:

"Way of the Cross from St. Elisabeth to St. Getreu.

"First of seven stations: House of Pilate

"Donated around 1500 by

"Heinrich Marschalk von Ebneth zu Rauheneck

"Number of steps according to the Way of the Passion of Jesus in Jerusalem

"Oldest completely preserved Way of the Cross

"in Germany."

 

The first station is “Jesus leaves the house of Pilate and is led away to the crucifixion.” It is located next to the Elisabethkirche in the property wall of the correctional facility.

Bamberg: first station of Kreuzweg – inscription, in medieval German, on left pillar reads “Hir wirt Christus ausgefirt von Pilatus haws sein kreutz tragend,”which translates: “Here Christ is led out of Pilate’s house carrying his cross”  (Von uploaded by Immanuel Giel - provided by Johannes Otto Först, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=2272767).

Bamberg: first station of Kreuzweg – inscription, in medieval Germaous note on Fischsechenn, on left pillar reads “Pilat[us] haws”; the “us” is represented by a traditional symbol of abbreviation (Von uploaded by Immanuel Giel - provided by Johannes Otto Först, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=2272768).

The first station shows how Jesus was led away to be crucified after his death sentence. Jesus, with the crown of thorns on his head, endures hostility patiently and bent under the weight of the cross. Five torturers force Jesus to take on the cross. The first looks back with a questioning look whether one can finally proceed to the execution. He carries a hammer and a basket of pliers and nails. The second torturer tries to pull on the rope with which Jesus is tied, but another torturer straddles his legs over the rope. This man and another beat Jesus and pull his hair. The last to come is a man who carries an ax to sharpen the beam of the cross.

The relief is bordered on both sides by symbolic urban architecture. The left pillar represents a city gate. The right pillar forms the house of Pilate, from which his wife and her two daughters follow the events.

2:28 PM - Bamberg: near Elisabethkirche - half-timbered house with murals: two women near tower of city gate with drawbridge (left), two men "jousting" on boats in river (center), people by maypole by church (right).

2:28 PM Cropped) - Bamberg: near Elisabethkirche - half-timbered house with mural of two men "jousting" on boats in river (see previous note on Fischerstechen).

2:29 PM - Bamberg: near Elisabethkirche - house labeled "Ahörnla im Sand Seit 1366" (Little Maple Tree in the Sand  Since 1366).

Ahörnla im Sand (Little Maple in the Sand) is a bar associated with the Ahörnla brewery, established in 1366. It is located at No. 24 on Obere Sandstraße (Upper Sand Street).

At some point, we turned off Obere Sandstraße onto Dominikanerstraße (Dominican Street), still headed southeast toward the Cathedral.

2:30 PM - Bamberg: street with at least two Viking tour groups; the Hofbäckerei Seel (Court Bakery Seel), at left, is on Dominikanerstraße; street sign at right points left to Klein Venedig and right to Michaelsberg and Domberg.

2:31 PM - Bamberg: sign for "Gast-u. Brauhaus zum Ringlein erbaut 1545 Besitzer R.u.C.Christel" (Bar and Brewery to Little Ring, built 1545, Owner[s] R and C Christel) and "Alt Ringlein" (old Ringlein), located at No. 9 Dominikanerstraße.

2:32 PM - Bamberg: half-timbered top floors of Schlenkerla brewery and tavern.

  

The Schlenkerla, at Dominikanerstraße 6, is a historic Rauchbier (Smoke Beer) brewery and tavern. First mentioned as the “House of the Blue Lion” in 1405, today is run by the Trum family in the 6th generation and is a source of Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier (Original Schlenkerla Smoke Beer). At the brewery tavern, the Rauchbier is still tapped directly from the wooden barrel according to old tradition.

The roots of the term Schlenkerla lie within the Frankish vernacular, in which schlenkern is an expression for walking not straight—just like a drunken person does. Allegedly, one of the former brewers had a funny way of walking due to an accident, or maybe due to the beer, and so he was called the “Schlenkerla”—the little dangler. The ending -la is the typical diminutive for the Frankish dialect. After a while, the residents of Bamberg also called the tavern “Schlenkerla,” and even though the sixth generation of brewers now taps the beer, the name has remained.

2:32 PM - Bamberg: lower floors of Schlenkerla brewery and tavern, with No. 6 [Dominikanerstraße] over door and old sign above that; to left of door is sign that reads: "Brauerei: 'Heller.' Wirtshaus zum 'Schlenkerla.' Familie Trum," which translates: "Brewery: 'Heller.' Tavern to 'Schlenkerla'. Family Trum."

2:33 PM - Bamberg: old-style sign above door of Schlenkerla brewery and tavern, with a squatting man and "Schlenkerla" in a green wreath below the figure of a blue lion with the year "1405" (founding of the House of the Blue Lion) at far left and a star of David at the far right; the lamp below the old sign says "Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier."

Then we came to the Domplatz (Cathedral Square) with the Dom (Cathedral).

2:40 PM - Bamberg: Dom - west façade (backlit) across the Domplatz.

 

Bamberg: Dom - north side with Alte Hofhaltung at right (By Berthold Werner - Own work, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=4527635).

The Bamberger Dom (Bamberg Cathedral), official name Bamberger Dom St. Peter und St. Georg (Bamberg Cathedral of St. Peter and St. George), stands on the Domplatz (Cathedral Square) on the Domberg (Cathedral Hill) and dominates the city’s skyline. It was founded in 1002 by King (and later Holy Roman Emperor) Heinrich II and consecrated in 1012. It contains the tombs of Heinrich II and his wife Kunigunde, the only imperial couple that was canonized, as well as the tomb of Pope Clement (1005-47, who had been Bishop of Bamberg 1040-46), the only papal grave in Germany and north of the Alps.

After the first two cathedrals burned down in the 11th and 12th centuries, the current sandstone structure, a late Romanesque building with four large towers (each about 81 m high), was built in the 13th century. Construction of the latter was begun about 1211, and it was consecrated in 1237.
It is a triple-nave basilica with two choirs, the apses of which are flanked by a pair of towers. The east apse (or choir), elevated due to the presence of a crypt beneath, is dedicated to the warrior St. George, symbolizing the Holy Roman Empire. It is the oldest part of the Cathedral, still in pure Romanesque style. The western counterpart is dedicated to St. Peter, representing the Papacy. It is early Gothic, and its vault was built starting in 1232; it contains the cathedra (bishop’s chair) and, behind it, the tomb of Pope Clement II.

2:40 PM - Bamberg: Domplatz (backlit at left) with one tower of Cathedral's east façade, Alte Hofhaltung (center background), and Neue Residenz (right).

The Domplatz (Cathedral Square) is lined with a variety of such superb buildings that it has no possible rival for the title of Germany’s finest square. The Ratsstube (City Council Tavern) is a Renaissance gem that now contains the Historisches Museum. Adjoining the Ratsstube is the Reiche Tor (Rich Gate), in which Heinrich and Kunigunde carry a model of the Cathedral. This gate leads to the huge 15th-century courtyard of the Alte Hofhaltung, the former episcopal palace, which incorporates the remains of the 11th-century hall of the Imperial Diet. Across the street is the building that supplanted it, the Neue Residenz.

2:43 PM - Bamberg: Dom - east façade, with Viking Bragi 13G tour group (guide at right).

2:46 PM - Bamberg: Dom - right (north) door of east façade (telephoto 93 mm).

Bamberg: Cathedral – Marienportal (By Reinhold Möller, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=68095000).

The Marienpforte or Marienportal (Mary Portal), also known as Gnadenpforte (Grace Portal), on the righthand door to the east façade (apse or choir) has carvings in a style similar to those of the Fürstenportal on the north side. They show the Madonna and Child adored by the Cathedral’s patrons (St. George and St. Peter on the left) and founders (Heinrich II and Kunigunde on the right). Smaller figures cowering in the corners are interpreted as being Bishop Ekbert (left), a cleric possibly cathedral provost Poppo of Andechs-Merania (right), and  crusader in the center, below Mary, may be based on one Brother Wortwinus, architect of the 1229-31 work.

Bamberg: Cathedral – tympanum of Marienportal (By Photo: Andreas Praefcke - Self-photographed, CC BY 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=6656210).

2:56 PM - Bamberg: Dom - north side (backlit), with towers of west façade; Viking Bragi 13G tour guide in left foreground.

The main portal is not on the west façade, as usual, due to the two-choir structure of the Cathedral, but in the north wall. It is called the Fürstenportal (Princes’ Portal) and is opened only on holy days. It accesses the northern side aisle and was started by late Romanesque artisans (prophets and apostles) but finished by early Gothic workers (Last Judgment in the tympanum). The columns under the progressively receding arches are each adorned with the figure of an Apostle standing on the shoulders of an Old Testament prophet. The statues (replicas) topping the taller columns to the left and right of the arches are Ecclesia (Church) and Synagoga (Synagogue); the originals were moved in 1937. There are also statues here of Abraham and the angel announcing the Last Judgment.

2:59 PM - Bamberg: Dom - Fürstenportal on north side; Viking Bragi 13G tour guide on steps in foreground.

MT 3:00 PM - Bamberg: Dom - closer view of Fürstenportal on north side.

3:00 PM - Bamberg: Dom - columns on right side of door on north side with statues of Apostles and Old Testament prophets; Viking Bragi 13G tour guide in left foreground and MT in right foreground.

2:56 PM - Bamberg: Dom - columns on left side of door on north side with statues of Apostles and Old Testament prophets; Viking Bragi 13G tour guide in left foreground.

3:00 PM - Bamberg: Dom - upper part of columns on left side of door on north side with statues of Apostles and Old Testament prophets and tympanum over door.

2:56 PM - Bamberg: Dom - tympanum and tops of columns of door on north side.

2:59 PM - Bamberg: Dom - tympanum of door on north side with relief of Last Judgment; there is a king on the left (heaven) side and on the right side are a king, a pope, and a bishop (mild telephoto 56 mm).

3:00 PM - Bamberg: Dom - columns on right side of door on north side with part tympanum; Viking Bragi 13G tour group paddle in left foreground.

3:02 PM - Bamberg: Dom - Biblical figures at top of rightmost column on right side of door on north side and sculptures on a taller column around corner to right, topped by the figure of Synagoga (mild telephoto 63 mm).

Bamberg: Dom – Synagoga statue on Fürstenportal (By Immanuel Giel, CC BY 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=56520990).

The figure of Synagoga is one of the most beautiful sculptures of the Bamberg Cathedral.

Ecclesia and Synagoga are Latin terms meaning “Church and Synagogue.” They are a pair of figures personifying the Christian Church and the Jewish synagogue, that is to say Judaism, that are found in medieval Christian art. They often appear sculpted as large figures on either side of a church portal. They may also be found standing on either side of the cross in scenes of the Crucifixion, especially in Romanesque art. The two female figures are usually young and attractive. Ecclesia is generally adorned with a crown, chalice, and cross-topped staff, looking confidently forward. In contrast, Synagoga is blindfolded and drooping, carrying a broken lance (possibly an allusion to the Holy Lance that stabbed Christ) and the Tablets of the Law or Torah scrolls that may even be slipping from her hand. The two figures reflect the medieval Christian belief that Jesus was the Jewish Messiah and that Judaism as a religion was therefore made unnecessary. Synagoga’s blindfold reflected the refusal of medieval Jews to “see” this point. If not blindfolded, Synagoga usually is looking down. The sculpted portal figures are generally found on the cathedrals of larger cities in northern Europe that had significant Jewish communities, especially in Germany. Ecclesia has an earlier history, and in medieval art Synagoga occasionally appears alone.

Bamberg: Dom – Ecclesia statue on Fürstenportal (By Photo: Andreas Praefcke - Self-photographed, CC BY 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=6655956).

2:59 PM (Cropped) - Bamberg: Dom - Biblical figures at top of columns on left side of door on north side, sculptures of the angel announcing the Last Judgment and (probably) Abraham above those columns, and sculptures on a taller column around corner to left, topped by the figure of Ecclesia.

3:02 PM - Bamberg: Alte Hofhaltung.

Bamberg: Alte Hofhaltung (Von Reinhard Kirchner - Eigenes Werk, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=2588389).

The Alte Hofhaltung (Old Court) is a historical building complex on the Domplatz. It consists of former residential and office buildings of the episcopal court, which were built from the 15th century onward on the site of the former palace of Emperor Heinrich II, partially demolished in the 16th century, which probably included the residence of the bishop since Heinrich founded the diocese in 1007. After the buildings of the Domberg (Cathedral Hill) were completed, the old court, which in its core still contains the palace and chapel from the 11th century, stood between the Cathedral to the south and the Neue Residenz to the north. After the Prince-Bishop moved to a new palace, the buildings were used as a chancellery, library, and council chamber. Today they house the historical museum of the city.

3:06 PM - Bamberg: Alte Hofhaltung - Schöne Pforte; MT following our Viking Bragi 13G guide.

Bamberg: Alte Hofhaltung – row of figures above the Schöne Pforte (Von Reinhard Kirchner - Eigenes Werk, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=2588497).

The Schöne Pforte (Beautiful Gate) was created by the sculptor Pankraz Wagner in 1573 as an imposing entrance to the Alte Hofhaltung. A relief of the Virgin Mary is flanked by figures of Heinrich II and Kunigunde, who hold a model of the Cathedral behind her. It shows the Cathedral in detail as it appeared until 1764. Farther out are the patrons of the Cathedral, St. Peter on the left and St. George on the right, and next to them two bishops, St. Otto and probably St. Kilian, the “Apostle to the Franks.” The reclining allegorical figures on either side symbolize the Main as a man (left) and the Regnitz as a woman (right). Above this relief, the Würzburg coat of arms crowns the entrance portal.

3:06 PM - Bamberg: Alte Hofhaltung, approaching Schöne Pforte.

3:06 PM - Bamberg: Alte Hofhaltung - left end of row of reliefs atop Schöne Pforte, with reclining figure representing the Main as a man (telephoto 105 mm).

3:07 PM - Bamberg: Alte Hofhaltung – Thomas- und Katharinenkapelle, seen from the inner courtyard of the Alte Hofhaltung, just inside the gate.

The Thomas- und Katharinenkapelle (Chapel of St. Thomas and St. Catherine). In the lower floor is the former Thomaskapelle from the year 1020, probably the oldest building of Bamberg. In later times, a Zwischendecke [intermediate floor] was inserted and the upper part was used as the bishop’s private chapel (Katharinenkapelle), while the lower part, the Thomaskapelle was transformed into a prison. A covered wooden staircase leads to the Katharinenkapelle, which today houses a storage room and an exhibition on the history of the construction of the Alte Hofhaltung. Under the staircase is the entrance to the Thomaskapelle.

Bamberg: Alte Hofhaltung: entrance to Katharinenkapelle at top of wooden staircase and entrance to Thomaskapelle under it (By Andreas Praefcke – Own Work at https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Bamberg_Alte_Hofhaltung_Kapelle.jpg).

3:09 PM - Bamberg: Alte Hofhaltung – Thomas- und Katharinenkapelle, seen from the inner courtyard of the Alte Hofhaltung.

3:08 PM - Bamberg: Alte Hofhaltung - sign by Kapelle, in German and English for "[Alte Hofhaltung] Bamberg / Old Court Bamberg"; English text [edited per German] reads:
 'The Old Court (Alte Hofhaltung) began as a Babenberger  fort. In 1003 a palace was built here by Emperor Henry II, which he made a seat of the first Bamberg bishop in 1007. The Gothic half-timbered buildings were begun in 1475 and the Council Chamber Building (Ratsstubenbau) and Beautiful Gate (Schöne Pforte) in the Renaissance style were added from 1568. In 1777 [several] large sections that had fallen into ruin were demolished.
"[In regard to monument preservation] The Old Court is today the responsibility of the Bavarian Palace Department [Bayerische Schlösserverwaltung]. A large part of the building is taken up [used] by the Historical Museum of the city of Bamberg and the cathedral restoration centre."
"Thomas- und Katharinenkapelle
"Chapel of St. Thomas and St. Catherine
"Included in the tour of the cathedral hill.
"Information can be obtained from the cash desk of the Neue Residenz Bamberg."

3:08 PM - Bamberg: Alte Hofhaltung – half-timbered buildings of inner courtyard with a tower of the west end of the Cathedral.

3:08 PM - Bamberg: Alte Hofhaltung – half-timbered buildings of inner courtyard, to right of preceding photo.

3:16 PM - Bamberg: Alte Hofhaltung – closer view of those half-timbered buildings of inner courtyard (mild telephoto 53 mm).

3:24 PM - Bamberg: Neue Residenz - east wing.

 

Bamberg: Neue Residenz – south wing, east wing, and Vierzehnheiligen Pavillion (Von Berthold Werner - Eigenes Werk, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=994276).

The Neue Residenz (New Residence) is a multi-wing, L-shaped building on the Domplatz. Starting in 1602, it was the residence of the Prince-Bishop of Bamberg and replaced the Alte Hofhaltung on the other side of the square in this function. Starting in 1803, it was a royal residence. Today, the complex of sandstone houses the State Library and State Gallery of Bamberg.

The Neue Residenz, with its four wings, was created in two phases of construction. First, the rear two-wing part bordering the Domplatz was built in the Renaissance style from 1602 and converted into a Baroque palace in 1697-1703.
In 1702-04, the Vierzehnheiligen-Pavillon (Fourteen Saints Pavillion) was added in front of the east wing, so-called Stadtflügel (City Wing). This four-story was intended to take on the function of a medieval tower. The corner building was given the name “Vierzehnheiligen-Pavillon” because, in favorable weather conditions, the pilgrimage church of Vierzehnheiligen in Staffelstein can be seen from the top floor.

Bamberg: Neue Residenz – façade of (south) wing (Von Tilman2007 - Eigenes Werk, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=35053253).

 

3:24 PM - Bamberg: Neue Residenz - Viking Bragi 13G tour group, MT at right, approaching (south) wing, with bit of east wing at right.

3:25 PM - Bamberg: Neue Residenz - rose garden.

 

Bamberg: Neue Residenz - rose garden in bloom (Von Reinhard Kirchner - Eigenes Werk, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=2586777).

The rose garden between the wings of the Neue Residenz grants a view over the urban landscape and the Jura heights. Before the rose garden was established, there was a Renaissance garden on the site in the 16th century, which was converted into a Baroque garden in 1733. The garden pavilion is in the Rococo style. The sculptures with the theme of ancient mythology were made in 1760-61. 4,500 roses bloom on the beds bordered by box hedges. From the rose garden, one has a view of the Michaelskirche and the roofs of the town.

3:26 PM - Bamberg: Neue Residenz - rose garden. 

3:26 PM - Bamberg: Neue Residenz - Viking Bragi 13G tour group in rose garden with view of old Michaelskirche on Michaelsberg (the guide said the church was being remodeled).

Bamberg: view of Michaelsberg from rose garden of Neue Residenz in 2008, before remodeling (By Berthold Werner - Own work, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=4407150).

The Michaelskirche (St. Michael’s Church) is the former abbey church of the Michaelsberg Abbey (German: Kloster Michaelsberg or Michelsberg). The abbey gave its name to the Michaelsberg, one of the seven hills of Bamberg, overlooking the town. After the dissolution of the abbey in 1803, the former Benedictine monastery was used as an almshouse, which is still there as a retirement home, The former abbey church remains in use as the Michaelskirche.

What is now called the Michaelsberg (Michael’s Hill) was inhabited before the abbey was founded in 1015. Excavations have uncovered massive walls and a moat from the 10th century. The first church on the site, dedicated to St. Michael, was built starting about 1015 and was consecrated in 1021. An earthquake in 1117 only slightly damaged the church, but the bishop had the whole building (and the monastery) torn down and rebuilt on a larger scale. The new (and current) building, basically a Romanesque church, was consecrated in 1121. However, it was badly damaged by fire in 1610 and was partially rebuilt in the Gothic style. The abbey’s Baroque buildings, to the north and west of the church, are from the 17th and 18th centuries. The church has been closed since 2012, and restoration begun in 2016 was expected to be finished in 2021 at the earliest.

MT 3:23 PM - Bamberg: view of rooftops and tall, green-domed church tower (St. Otto) to NNE, from rose garden of Neue Residenz.

3:36 PM - Bamberg: north side of Cathedral and Alte Hofhaltung at right.

Next, the tour group headed toward the Altes Rathaus.

3:42 PM - Bamberg: view down street (Karolinenstraße) to east toward Altes Rathaus, MT following our guide.

3:43 PM - Bamberg: closer to Altes Rathaus at east end of street (Karolinenstraße), MT following our guide.

Bamberg: Altes Rathaus (Von Ermell - Eigenes Werk, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=62344434).

The Altes Rathaus (Old City Hall) is one of the most important buildings that typify the historic inner city. It is located between the Bergstadt (hill city) and the Inselstadt (island city) in the left arm of the Regnitz, marking the boundary between those two parts of the city. It is built in the middle of the Regnitz, and the Obere Brücke (Upper Bridge) and Untere Brücke (Lower Bridge), originally a private bridge, lead away from it. The Baroque lower bridge provides a magnificent view over the upper bridge.

The Bishop of Bamberg did not want to give up any of his land to the citizens for the construction of a city hall. As a result, the crafty citizens drove stakes in the Regnitz and thus created an artificial island on which they built their city hall. The Regnitz marks the old border of jurisdiction between the episcopal hill and the secular island town.
The Rathaus was first mentioned in 1387 and was rebuilt in 1461-67, so that it took its present form, primarily influenced by the Gothic style. In 1744-56, it was reshaped in the Baroque and Rococo style. Added in 1688, the three-story half-timbered Rottmeisterhaus (team leader house) with a gabled saddle roof sitting on the icebreaker of the Upper Bridge served to accommodate the leaders of the guards.

Bamberg: Altes Rathaus – southeast side with Rottmeisterhaus and Upper Bridge (Von jepe - Eigenes Werk, CC BY 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=635612).

The Rococo balconies, richly decorated with rocaille ornamentation, and coat of arms reliefs were created in 1755-56 and replaced by copies in 1883-94.

3:44 PM - Bamberg: Viking Bragi 13G guide leading us toward the passageway through the Altes Rathaus, across the bridge at east end of street (Karolinenstraße), façade paintings to left and Rottmeisterhaus to right.

MT 3:39 PM - Bamberg: Viking Bragi 13G guide leading us toward the passageway through the Altes Rathaus, across the bridge at east end of street (Karolinenstraße), façade paintings to left and Rottmeisterhaus to right.

3:45 PM - Bamberg: passageway through the Altes Rathaus, with ornate balcony above it.

3:45 PM - Bamberg: left end of façade painting on southeast side of the Altes Rathaus.

3:51 PM - Bamberg: right end of façade painting on southeast side of the Altes Rathaus, with 3-dimensional parts of putti at top and bottom edges (mild telephoto 49 mm).

Our guide told us about 3-dimensional figures (head and arm at top and leg at bottom) of this façade painting.

 

Particularly worthy of mention are the façade paintings on the sides of the Altes Rathaus, façade paintings to left and Rottmeisterhaus to the right, originally created in 1755 by Johann Anwander and restored many times. After the paintings were no longer visible in the 1950s, they were repainted in 1959-62. Both sides of the building are completely decorated with sensitive artistic understanding by allegorical scenes and architectural details, the typical illusion painting of this time. Small, actually 3-dimensional elements on the east side reinforce the spatial impression.

Bamberg: 3-dimensional leg of putto (figure of boy  similar to angelic cherub but without wings, plural putti) projecting from right end of façade paintings on southeast side of the Altes Rathaus, with artist’s palette at right and inscription “Joh. Anwander invenit & pint” (the name of the original artist, who “invented & painted” it) at left (Von Reinhard Kirchner - Eigenes Werk, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=2597135).

Bamberg: façade paintings on northwest side of the Altes Rathaus (Von Reinhard Kirchner - Eigenes Werk, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=2597000).

MT 3:41 PM - Bamberg: façade painting on northwest side of the Altes Rathaus.

3:47 PM - Bamberg: Altes Rathaus - sign, in German, to right of passageway entrance, which reads:

"Altes Rathaus

"15. Jahrhundert

"1744-1756 von J.J.M. Küchel umgebaut

"Fassadenmalerei von Johann Anwander 1755

"Rokokobalkos und Wappenreliefs von

"Jos. Bonaventura Mutschele"

which translates as:

"Altes Rathaus

"15th Century

"Rebuilt 1744-1756 by J.J.M. Küchel

"Façade paintings by Johann Anwander 1755

"Rococo Balconies and Coat of Arms Reliefs by

"Jos. Bonaventura Mutschele"

After the guided tour ended, we headed back toward the Cathedral to get a look at its interior.

However, we first came to another church, which Don later identified as the Obere Pfarrkirche (Upper Parish Church)

4:01 PM - Bamberg: Obere Pfarrkirche - apse end, from the northeast, with Bridal Portal on north side and tower at far end.

Bamberg: Obere Pfarrkirche – Gothic choir (apse) end (By Dark Avenger-commonswiki. Own work assumed (based on copyright claims) at https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Bamberg_Obere_Pfarrkirche.jpg).

The Obere Pfarrkirche (Upper Parish Church), on Unter Kaulberg street, is Bamberg’s main parish church. It is also called Obere Pfarre Unsere Liebe Frau (Upper Parish of Our Beloved Lady). Due to its location, the name Obere Pfarre was given to the parish as a counterpart to the Untere Pfarre (Lower Parish), the former parish church of Alt-St. Martin, which was demolished in 1805. The Upper Parish may have started as the private church of the Counts of Babenberg (extinct in 906). The first documentary evidence of it was only around 1140. In 1304, it belonged to the chapter of the Cathedral, to which it was again awarded in 1401, after disputes.

The Upper Parish is a three-aisled, High Gothic pillar basilica with a later attached ambulatory choir.  Construction of the church began in 1338, although the plans already began at the end of the 13th century. The nave was not consecrated until 1387. The towering choir was begun in 1392. By 1450 at the latest, the new church must have been completed. In 1537-38, a five-story tower was added. Around 1606-07, the church was completely repaired. In 1768, Johann Jakob Michael Küchel gave the high choir roof its end, which today faces west.
This High Gothic church was founded in the 14th century. Architecturally, it is a hodgepodge, though the chancel and the Brautportal (Bridal Portal) are distinguished productions of the 14th century. In the 18th century, the interior was remodeled in the Baroque style.

Bamberg: Obere Pfarrkirche – Bridal Portal (By Dark Avenger-commonswiki. Own work assumed (based on copyright claims) at https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/13/Bamberg_Obere_Pfarrkirche_3.jpg).

The Bridal Portal on the north side is usually referred to as the former main portal, but served the wedding rite of the Catholic Church. The priest blessed the bride and groom and put rings on them in the open air, in order to then move into the church with them and celebrate mass. The portal has an open vestibule and rich sculptural decorations of the Wise and Foolish Virgins; in the tympanum, there is the Coronation of Mary.

The magnificent east choir stands in clear contrast to the simplicity of the nave. Probably in competition with the somewhat older choir of Nürnberg’s main church, St. Sebald, one of the main works of the Franconian Gothic was created here. The recourse to the older basic French Gothic cathedral shape was a typical expression of the re-Gothicization tendencies in Central European architecture around 1400. The convergence of the buttress arches on the upper story was necessary here for structural reasons. The east side was designed as the actual show side, with rich ornamental shapes covering the exposed sandstone. The church towers like a ship in front of the viewer.

Bamberg: Obere Pfarrkirche – west end with tower (By Berthold Werner – Own work at  https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/4b/Bamberg_Obere_Pfarre_BW_4.JPG).

3:57 PM - Bamberg: Obere Pfarrkirche - apse end, from the northeast, with Bridal Portal on north side and tower at far end.

Then we came to the Cathedral, which had been closed for a wedding when the tour group was there earlier.

4:03 PM - Bamberg: north side of Cathedral at far end of a narrow, pedestrianized  street with steps in foreground.

MT 3:59 PM - Bamberg: north side of Cathedral at far end of a narrow, pedestrianized  street (mild telephoto 46 mm).

4:17 PM - Bamberg: Cathedral - tomb of Emperor Heinrich II and his wife Kunigunde.

Bamberg: Cathedral - tomb of Emperor Heinrich II and his wife Kunigunde (By Reinhard Kirchner - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=2577539).

The tomb of Heirrich II and Kunigude, at the front of the east choir, is the work of Tilman Riemenschneider, completed in 1513. Riemenschneider labored on it for 14 years. The polished white limestone and marble sarcophagus stands slightly elevated as a result of the crypt below it. The tomb rises about 1.7 m above the floor. The top is carved with likenesses of the couple, and around the sides are reliefs depicting scenes from the life and times of the imperial couple,

4:18 PM - Bamberg: Cathedral - Bamberger Reiter on column (mild telephoto 49 mm).

 

Bamberg: Cathedral – Bamberger Reiter (By Berthold Werner - Own work, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=5084614).

The Bamberger Reiter (Bamberg Rider or Horseman), dating from 1225-30, stands near the tomb of Heinrich II and Kunigunde, on the northwest column of the east choir just inside the entrance doorway, supported by an Acanthus corbel. There is no consensus on who this knight on horseback was supposed to represent. During the long history of the Cathedral, there have been many versions. The Romantics in the 19th century thought he was a German emperor from the Hohenstaufen family. The Nazis thought he was a knight who symbolized German perfection, looking toward the east for new lands to conquer. It is now thought that he was probably the 11th-century Hungarian king Stephen I, who was Heinrich’s brother-in-law. based on modern technology that revealed the original colors used to paint the statue. The Reiter is probably the oldest statue of a horsemen in post-Roman Germany.

 

4:18 PM - Bamberg: Cathedral - Bamberger Reiter on column (wider view).

 

4:18 PM - Bamberg: Cathedral - Kirchgattendorfer Altar, with triptych, in right aisle.

Bamberg: Cathedral - Kirchgattendorfer Altar (By Bärwinkel,Klaus - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=70003686).

The Kirchgattendorfer Altar, from around 1510, is from the Protestant parish church of Kirchgattendorf in Upper Franconia and has been displayed in the Bamberg Cathedral since 1921. The Late Gothic altar stands across from the Bamberger Reiter.

In the middle of the winged (triptych) altar is Mary in a halo, crowned by angels, accompanied by St. Barbara of Nicomedia (with a chalice and host) and St. Catherine of Alexandria (with a sword). On the side wings are reliefs from the life of Mary: the Annunciation (top left), the birth of Jesus (bottom left), the Visitation of Mary and Elisabeth (top right), and Mary and the Three Wise Men (bottom right). In the predella under the central shrine is depicted the dormition of Mary.

MT 4:15 PM - Bamberg: Cathedral - Kirchgattendorfer Altar, with triptych, in right aisle.

4:19 PM - Bamberg: Cathedral - Riemenschneider Altar.

  

Bamberg: Cathedral - Riemenschneider Altar (By Tilman2007/Dr. Volkmar Rudolf - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=3877291).

The two most notable altars in the Cathedral are the Kirchgattendorfer Altar and the so-called Riemenschneider Altar, both in side aisles of the nave In 1926, the Riemenschneider Altar was put together from various sculptures of different origin, all dating from around 1500 and an available predella. It is named for the statue of St. Sebastian, which is attributed to the workshop of Riemenschneider. It has no altar table and is exhibited purely as a museum piece. In the central portion, on the left is St. Sebastian (workshop of Riemenschneider), in the middle is Emperor Heinrich II, and on the right is St. Stephen.

Tilman Riemenschneider (ca. 1460-1531) was a German sculptor and woodcarver active in Würzburg from 1483. He is one of the most prolific and versatile sculptors of a transition period between late Gothic and Renaissance, a master in stone and limewood. His flourishing workshop provided work for as many as 40 apprentices.

4:20 PM - Bamberg: Cathedral - Mühlhausener Altar.

The Mühlhausener Altar, from around 1500, comes from the Protestant parish church of Mühlhausen. In 1781, it was replaced and then sold off in 1891. Given to the Archbishop of Bamberg, he gifted it in 1904 to the Cathedral. The altar, in the northern transept, is dedicated to Mary.

4:20 PM - Bamberg: Cathedral - Mühlhausener Altar (mild telephoto 49 mm).

4:21 PM - Bamberg: Cathedral - western crypt, below main altar.

The western crypt was filled with rubble but reopened in 1987-95. It was discovered that it still contained features of Heinrich’s original cathedral. It now serves as the burial site for the Archbishops of Bamberg.

4:23 PM - Bamberg: Cathedral - choir behind the modern main altar in west apse.

Bamberg: Cathedral – interior of west apse with modern Volksaltar (People’s Altar) in foreground, chandelier, choir stalls, and cathedra, Kreuzaltar (Cross Altar) in the back, above tomb of Pope Clement II (Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=852924).

The west apse (choir) is early Gothic, and its vault was built starting in 1232; it contains the cathedra (bishop’s chair) and, behind it, the tomb of Pope Clement II.

 We left the Cathedral through the Adamspforte.

4:25 PM - Bamberg: Cathedral - Adamspforte.

 

Bamberg: Cathedral – Adamspforte (By W. Bulach - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=63596068).

The Adamspforte (Adam’s Portal), leading to the tower of the on the left side of the east apse, is a dogtooth* doorway sporting figures (replicas) of St. Stephen, Kunigunde, and Heinrich II on the left and of St. Peter, Adam, and Eve on the right. Adam and Eve, wearing only fig leaves, come as near to erotic art as was ever dared in the Middle Ages. This portal has no tympanum.

*In architecture, a dogtooth is an ornamental molding in some medieval buildings, consisting of a series of toothlike projections. Found as early as the 7th century in the Middle East, it is thought to have been introduced to Europe by crusaders in the 12th century.

Bamberg: Cathedral – Adamspforte figures on left side: St. Stephen, Kunigunde, and Heinrich II (By Photo: Andreas Praefcke - Self-photographed, CC BY 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=6656123).

Bamberg: Cathedral – Adamspforte figures on right side: St. Peter, Adam, and Eve (By Photo: Andreas Praefcke - Self-photographed, CC BY 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=6656133).

Then we went back to the Sclenkerla brewery and tavern on Dominikanerstraße, where MT wanted to try the famous Rauchbier.

4:38 PM - Bamberg: Schlenkerla - MT with liter of Rauchbier, in front of sign by door.

 

Rauchbier literally means “smoke beer.” It is a type of beer with a distinctive smoke flavor imparted by using malted barley dried over an open flame. This character may be carried over to beers brewed with smoked malt.

Once upon a time, all beers were Rauchbiers. The ancient kilning methods of drying green brewer’s malt over open fires ensured that all the grains picked up smoky flavors. Beginning in the 18th century, kiln drying of malt became progressively more common, although it did not enter into widespread usage until the industrial era. Since the kiln method shunts the smoke away from the wet malt, a smoky flavor is not imparted to the grain. Due to the “clean malt” brewing methods used today, smoke beers have become a rarity. Because Rauchbier is a robust brew, it goes very well with bold, full-flavored foods, such as smoked ham, pork, salmon, sausage, and cheese.

Some Bamberg breweries continue to use malt that has been dried over open flames. Two brew pubs, Schlenkerla and Spezial, have continued smoke beer production for nearly 200 years. Both dry their malt over open fires made from beechwood logs and produce several varieties of Rauchbier. Both are still in operation today, alongside seven other breweries in Bamberg. The malt and fermenting beer are stored under the pub and brewery in a part of the catacombs of Bamberg, a maze of tunnels under the city built from the 11th century onward, which have very stable moisture and temperature. Since the Rauchbier tradition was continuously preserved In Bamberg, the beer style is now marketed as Bamberg Rauchbier. The most productive, most visited, and most traditional Rauchbier source in Bamberg is Schlenkerla.

4:42 PM - Bamberg: Schlenkerla - sign by door, about Rauchbier.

Bamberg: both sides coaster from Schlenkerla; the one at the left, in German, reads:

"Bambergs Spezialität [Bamberg's Specialty]

"Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier [Original Schlenkerla Smoke Beer]

"(ges. gesch) [registered]

"Brauerei Heller Bamberg" [Brewery Heller Bamberg]

The reverse, on the right, has the same the same text as the sign by the door, in old-fashioned German or Frankish, which translates:
"Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier [Original Schmenkerla Smoke Beer] (ges. gesch) [registered]
"brewed according to old fathers' custom and well appropriate to Bamberg, cooled and stored in the womb of deep earth, is an especially tasty elixier of life and comes into the most worthy tavern named Schlenkerla and mentioned as early as 1405. While, however, the brew at the first drink could taste somewhat strange, do not let it bother you, for soon you will realize that the thirst does not lessen, whereas your pleasure will visibly increase."

MT 4:34 PM - Bamberg: Schlenkerla - Don and MT with her Rauchbier (Don looks like he just tasted it).

MT 4:47 PM - Bamberg: Schlenkerla - bottles of Aecht Sclenkerka Rauchbier [Mä]rzen,  Sclenkerka Rauchbier Weizen (Wheat) and Helles Schlenkerla Lagerbier (Light Lager) for sale.

Then MT wanted to look for a Dirndl in a Trachtenladen (folk costume store). She found one she liked on a rack on sale for €69-79, but they didn't have the right size.

5:00 PM - Bamberg: Trachtenladen - rack of Dirndl dresses with sign for "Special Offer: Dirndl only €69-79."

Then we returned to the Viking Skadi.

At 6:45, passengers were invited to join Captain Rosen and Hotel Manager Heiner in the Lounge for a Farewell Toast from the Viking Skadi.

9:07 PM - Viking Skadi - photos of ship's crew leaders, with Captain Rosen Nedkov and Hotel Manager Heiner Ostrowski in top row and Program Director Jochgum (Joey) Schuijt at right in middle row.